Rock Climbing with Rob Pizem: climbing training

Showing posts with label climbing training. Show all posts

August 29, 2014

Grand Valley Climbing: Short Walking Videos

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com

Three short walking videos of the new gym.

Enjoy

http://youtu.be/bt3APRP4ep0

http://youtu.be/uuSQ5JkW4mc

http://youtu.be/XRkGAvBPRyg

February 21, 2014

Summit Grapevine (Dallas,Tx) Gym Review

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com

So this is a great smaller gym with more top roping and leading than bouldering.
The routes that I climbed were well set and the grades seemed right on par with other gyms.
I really liked how the setters used the features in addition to the smooth paint vs textured features.
This made it challenging to grab them and to stand on them if it was the slick feature.

With respect to training there was a speed wall (where the kids excel at and often win national competitions. I had never seen one, it is set with just a few holds and the kids figure out how to move quickly up through the odd shaped holds.
Personally, I would have set real routes on it because it was just slightly overhung and very wide. Perfect to set any kind of route on.
The training area is a second thought. They have finger boards poorly placed in a corner, they have a weight bench with just a few weights, they have a pull up bar that is free standing that is not attached to the floor so it can fall over if you were to rock it to one side.

In all I like the gym but the training area is lackluster. No systems board, no campus board, no real equipment, no space and no instruction for what they do have.

The bouldering area was small as you can see below. Get a lot of people in there and you will be falling on top of each other. It had the right amount of angles and plenty of holds to make up your own problems if you wanted.

There was an arch in the lead area that was quite fun and again well set.

Slick feature

Textured feature

Classroom/yoga/party room

February 18, 2014

Training with Piz: Campus Board Lock Off Reach (Static Moves)

This is a straight power movement.
You can do one on each arm and rest or make it a power-endurance move by performing a few in a row.
The goal is to lock off after doing a pull up and then statically reach high with one hand.
Then lower (doing a negative) and pull up again and reach with the opposite hand.
Keep you core engaged and your chest to the board in addition to your arm and hand close to the wall.
It is not about grabbing a campus rung but reaching slowly as high as you can.
If this is too challenging then you can always add a foot to the wall and build up to the no feet version.

February 14, 2014

Training with Piz: How Much is Too Much?

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

How much training is too much training?

This seems to be a big issue. As I talk with folks about how much they train, I get a lot a different answers.

Some people have been training/working out for years and have a high tolerance for pushing hard multiple days a week and some people are just entering into their new lifestyle and don't have the ability to go that hard or that much. Some have past injuries that they have to be aware of while some can become injured if pushed too hard one way or another.

So the answer lies within you. It is important to be honest with yourself about your current and past fitness level. In addition to any past or present injuries. Even when working with guidance, you can still over do it and work into negative gains. It is less likely to occur when working with someone everyday, but more possible when working remotely with someone. The day to day interaction and observations that a trained eye can make are immense, while following a script can be beneficial it also can lead to questions of whether or not you are doing things correctly.

The bottom line is that you have to listen to your body, no matter what you are doing and objectively identify how your training is going. Evaluate how you are feeling and go from there.

February 13, 2014

Training with Piz: Barbies

The Barbie is the NEW BURPEE

Just add a weighted bar to the mix and get after it.
What a great full body workout.
It focuses on your core, power in the legs with the jump,
oppositional muscles in your arms with the pushup,
cardio from the speed.

It's time to get down!

February 5, 2014

Training with Piz: How Much Do I Train? AND 1 Arm Negatives

Many people ask me how often do I train. Here are the facts.

My situation.

I am married and have two young boys under the age of 3.
I have a full time job as a high school science teacher at an alternative high school.
I am sponsored by 4 great companies which require time and energy throughout the year at events, trade shows and whatever.
My second job is as the head trainer at the Grand Junction Climbing Center.
My third job consists of working with clients around the U.S. on remote climbing training programs.
My wife works and loves to run competitively.
My forth job consists of public speaking engagements around the U.S.
Most of my days start at 4:30 or 5am and end around 8pm before I have any "my" time.

My training.

I circuit train on Tuesday and Thursday mornings at 5am for 45 minutes
I Treadwall once a week for about 1 hour.
I use a fingerboard, a systems board and a campus board once a week on Thursdays all together for about an hour.

Outdoor climbing.

If the weather permits I get one day a weekend.
Occasionally, I get both days a weekend.

Total Time Committed to My Training Per Week

3.5 hours a week

Total Time Committed to Actual Climbing Per Week

1 hour if no outdoor climbing
1 hour plus whatever can be done with 1 day of outdoor climbing.

So, my work out time is very specific and very specialized to meet my climbing and strength needs. I don't waste time just doing stuff for the sake of doing it. I look at where I am weak and what my current/future projects require and train to meet those needs. I write a plan and follow it and record my results. Training does not have to be all consuming but it does have to be focused and to the point.

With those few hours a week, I can maintain a high level of fitness and complete my projects in a reasonable amount of time. If I had more time to climb, I would complete them more quickly, but I really want to be the best husband and father that I can be, so it is all good!

Another great way to work your lock off strength.

Be sure to be on a jug and to try to center your self over your arm.

As you get even stronger you can try to not be centered over the middle of your body (off set).

January 31, 2014

Training with Piz: The High/Low Crimp Foot Cut

This is another way to work core tension and compression.

Grab the same crimp close to full span on a steep wall. (this is at 45 degrees)
Then cut feet and place then exactly where you were once standing. Choose awkward foot placements in order to increase the difficulty.

Repeat 3-5 moves in a row and then repeat with the opposite hand placement.

This is powerful and explosive and requires engaging your whole body from finger tips thru your forearms and core down thru your legs and finally ending at your toes.

A great move to learn how to engage every part of your body.

January 28, 2014

Training with Piz: Fingerwalking

Fingerwalking

Shuffling on various sizes of crimps can be good. Start on a big piece of wood like a 2x4 and move down to smaller and smaller crimps. Ideally your feet will be off the ground, but you can have one foot on to develop the skill.
Every time that you move is with a small kip of the hips (pop up).
Be sure to use open hands and no thumbs!!

January 27, 2014

Winter 2014 Outdoor Retailer Photos

The drive north to Salt Lake. I should be seeing mountains but the air pollution is thick today!

Friday nights talent show. It was the ninth year where retailers and reps join together to jam. Four bands came together with 30 minute sets. It was a good time to dance and relax. Here Sarah Wood rocks out as she sings some Cyprus Hill!

One of the walls of goodness at the CAMP booth!

The climbing shoe collection from SCARPA!

STERLING ROPES as far as the I could see!

Ah Arcteryx, the booth of booths.

It makes me feel good inside to know that all these companies are working hard to improve their lines and make life just a little bit better for folks like us : )

Thanks to my sponsors

piz : )

January 14, 2014

Training with Piz: Compression Training

Compression is required on all kinds of climbing routes. I would say there are more bouldering compression problems out there than routes, but they exist. Some climbers can call themselves compression climbers and they normally get crushed on all other kinds of routes. So it is in essence a specialty skill, but one that should not be over looked. Font in France has tons of compression problems

To Train:

1 Find a set of holds and a wall if you are lucky enough that is overhung where two good open holds can be squeezed together at your maximum reach. Try to set the feet so that they are at a similar max

2 Pull on the wall and hold tight for a given time.

A good progression of this exercise is to move from jugs, to open hand with thumbs and without thumbs and finally to crimps.

If you have an adjustable wall, which more and more gyms are investing in. You just have to kick back the angle to increase the difficulty!

Get out there and train!

January 9, 2014

Thoughts on the New Earthtreks Gym

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

So, I only had a few minutes at the gym, but I immediately loved it. I like the walls and the shapes and the texture, I like the floors and the open space and the route setting. I like the bouldering. The bathrooms were clean and there was tons of open space. It is not a cramped gym, which is nice.
I like the systems boards but did not think that they were set as they could be. Also the fingerboard area seemed like it was an after thought. The cardio zone with weights was sweet and would work nicely for individuals, but not as nice for groups of people at once.
Overall this is a rad place that I would have a membership at if I lived on the front range. Or else I would be working there!

They have balls. Lots of them. I use the yoga balls regularly at my local gym for all kinds of core work and strength training. Don't be afraid to ask someone at the gym to find out how to use any equipment.

There is plenty of cardio equipment. All new and top of the line. You can use this stuff and watch folks climbing in the main area. Not a bad idea. Also there is a ton of room between the equipment and the workout area so that people are not stepping on each other. If you notice there are rings and slings hanging from the ceiling. another nice feature that keeps them off the floor and out of the way while in the workout area. No lost slings or Atomic balls at this gym

You want power? Well, check out the campus zone. It is wide open and ready to be used by all who dare.

The place is beautiful, clean and has routes for everyone that are over 40ft tall

Can't lead yet, no problem. There are tons of top ropes. Also the routes are set by color of the holds. No more tape to have to try to see. That is way nicer than the old way.

Climber to show scale on the wall.

More training on the adjustable systems boards.

January 1, 2014

Training with Piz: Climbing is for Kids

December 13, 2013

Training with Piz: Crimp Repeater Smears

December 5, 2013

Training with Piz: Weighted Shoulder Circles

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com
www.camp-usa.com
www.scarpa.com
www.sterlingrope.com
www.americanalpineclub.org
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com

Weighted Shoulder Circles
You can perform this exercise with or without weights.
It works on strengthening your rotator cuff region in your shoulder.

It is best to grab a comfortable weight (less weight is better) that you can hold out fully extended and make small forward and backward circular motions. It is not a race and each circle should be completed at the same pace.
Be sure to compliment the forward numbers with the reverse to get a balanced workout.

If you are looking for more of these types of movements because you have had or are currently working through shoulder issues, look at the bottom of the page for some more ideas. There are tons of ways to strengthen your rotator cuff and it is good to do a variety of exercises to evenly develop the weakness and or for preventative means. Regular maintenence will keep you climbing injury free for a long time so don't wait until you are injured. Start doing these at least once a week!

December 3, 2013

Great Traning Site from My Friend Mark Anderson

November 23, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: The Big One

November 13, 2013

Training with Piz: Sidepull Crimp Repeater

Repeaters are when you repeat a given movement. We have come up with tons of repeaters in our training program and they work really well to develop hand and core and finger strength.

The side pull crimp repeater is a great way to work on two different hold sizes and grip positions at a variety of angles.(if you have an adjustable systems board)

If crimps are a weakness, then make one or both of the holds that size (but two different styles) if you are having problems with slopers, you can focus on those types of holds. It works with any combination.

I chose side pulls and small crimps.

I fix my feet in place (that means that I do not move them throughout the set)
Then move my hands to and from the holds in a systematic manner.
If I lead with the right hand, then I come down with the right hand and vice verse.

I always attempt to make sure that I am leading and descending from the holds the same amount of time.

With respect to body position, focus on pushing down hard with your feet, focus on a tight core and adding a small inward dynamic movement to initiate each hand movement. Be as in control as possible (the more your body swings) the less likely you will do lots of them. The more your body swings, the more energy you will use in trying to keep yourself on the board. If you want to send your route/boulder problem you will not want to waste energy on things other than the movements!

Get out there and come up with your own exercises!

November 11, 2013

Training with Piz: Knee Raise Push Ups

These push ups are tough. Once your start using the hanging slings or the TRX set up for working out, you will discover a whole new world of specific muscles that you didn't know you had. Additionally, you will never know how overlooked and underdeveloped they have been.

Keeping your low back tight is the key to any exercise like this where you are in a push up or plank position. The way that you do that is by attempting to tightly pinch your butt cheeks together.

Be sure that the rest of your body is tight including your legs and upper back. You do not want a dip in your upper back or to bend it when you are doing the push up. Keep your core tight, always keep you core tight.

So, push up and be sure that your arms are not touching or leaning on the webbing of the sling or TRX. That is cheating and taking away the need for more body tension.
After the push up bring one knee to the opposite elbow. Then do another push up and and bring the other knee to the other elbow.

Remember focus on form and you will see your body tension and core strength and pushing ability increase.

Have fun!

November 6, 2013

Training with Piz: Twerking

Twerking:
Twerking is the name of a style of dance that I have seen in high school gyms with my students.
One student bends over while the other does mini squats very close to the other that is bending over. Sometimes they are so close that they are touching and its disgusting.

Here is a great way to work all of your legs, joints, and back.

Squat with dumb bells or a bench of an appropriate weight resting on your shoulders.
Move quickly up and down with your back straight. Since you are only doing a partial squat, you don't have to worry about not having your knees pass over your toes when going down. This is a concern when you are doing a real squat.

Get after it and have some fun!

October 29, 2013

Training with Piz: Analyzing Technique, Chris Sharma Style

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Check out the video with all the commentary and enjoy the beauty of the area.
THEN
Look at how a climber of nearly 20 years gets it done and watch for technique!

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/chris-sharma-down-under

Here are a few of the things that I learned while watching Chris Sharma climb.

He immediately places a foot on the wall after making reaches to take weight off his hands
He always finds that "plumb" position on his arms in order to rest effectively
He uses momentum to generate speed to make long moves dynamic rather than powerful
He constantly looks down at his feet, so that he is taking weight off his arms and hands
He initally grabs small holds with an open hand and will switch to crimp postion when he needs to pull.
On vertical to slightly overhanging terrain, the high foot and lock off and rocker on your foot are essential skills
While bouldering, watch to see how strong his calves are, they are always engaged
Being flexible is advantageous but not too flexible or you will loose power

Do your best to check your own technique and see whether or not you are being as efficient as you can be. Also watch the other expereinced and talented climbers that are at the crag or gym and try to emulate how they do things. It is not always that they are way "stronger" than you, but it might be that they are just using proper technique!!

Have fun out there!