Planning to Send this Fall? How will you do that?

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org    www.brewersledge.com  

This is the time to be getting ready and tuning up for your fall redpoint season.
How are you going to do that? Are you going to try the same old way as you have every other year or are you going to attempt to use a systematic approach that addresses your weaknesses?

Here are some suggestions to get ready! (they are in no particular order)

1. Pick an objective. That can be a climb or boulder problem, short or long, steep or vertical. If you don't have something to train for it is difficult to assess your weakness and then train with intent.
2. Be realistic but aim high. Don't just pick something that you are already close to accomplishing, choose something that is out of your comfort zone. By addressing all those areas that are difficult for you, you will become a better climber.
3. Assess how much time that you have to give to the training. You need to meet your lifes obligations so plan your training accordingly.
4. Identify training days and fun days (at the crag or gym). You can't make every single day a training day, you have to build in the fun and vice versa, you can't expect to progress if you just go and screw off all day in an undirected manner.
5. Find a training partner with a similar schedule or training plan. That way you have someone to psyche you up if you are slacking on a day or two. A partner allows you to climb routes too!
6. Build in rest time! Without rest you don't recover.
7. Plan Plan Plan and then follow through! That means don't spend your time climbing slab if you want to get better at overhangs! Choose your climbs and boulders to meet your needs. That might take you out of your routine but that is good, you need to step out to step up.
8. Get a trainer or a training book. There are many out there that are very good at helping people progress. We are never too good to improve! Be open to constructive criticism. Even Ondra needs a coach!   
9. Make it fun! If you aren't smiling at the end of the day, then your taking it to serious. It's climbing folks, we are not saving the world or solving world problems. : )        

Summit Grapevine (Dallas,Tx) Gym Review

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org  www.brewersledge.com  


So this is a great smaller gym with more top roping and leading than bouldering.
The routes that I climbed were well set and the grades seemed right on par with other gyms.
I really liked how the setters used the features in addition to the smooth paint vs textured features.
This made it challenging to grab them and to stand on them if it was the slick feature.

With respect to training there was a speed wall (where the kids excel at and often win national competitions. I had never seen one, it is set with just a few holds and the kids figure out how to move quickly up through the odd shaped holds.
Personally, I would have set real routes on it because it was just slightly overhung and very wide. Perfect to set any kind of route on.
The training area is a second thought. They have finger boards poorly placed in a corner, they have a weight bench with just a few weights, they have a pull up bar that is free standing that is not attached to the floor so it can fall over if you were to rock it to one side.

In all I like the gym but the training area is lackluster. No systems board, no campus board, no real equipment, no space and no instruction for what they do have.

The bouldering area was small as you can see below. Get a lot of people in there and you will be falling on top of each other. It had the right amount of angles and plenty of holds to make up your own problems if you wanted.

There was an arch in the lead area that was quite fun and again well set.

Slick feature

Textured feature

Classroom/yoga/party room

              

Training with Piz: The High/Low Crimp Foot Cut

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com   www.windx-treme.com  

This is another way to work core tension and compression.

Grab the same crimp close to full span on a steep wall. (this is at 45 degrees)
Then cut feet and place then exactly where you were once standing. Choose awkward foot placements in order to increase the difficulty.

Repeat 3-5 moves in a row and then repeat with the opposite hand placement.

This is powerful and explosive and requires engaging your whole body from finger tips thru your forearms and core down thru your legs and finally ending at your toes.

A great move to learn how to engage every part of your body.             

Training with Piz: Two Move Finger Board Repeater Pops

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com   www.windx-treme.com  

Choose two different but good holds that you can move back and forth on.
Start hanging on one pair of holds and then without touching the wall or floor "pop" or move to the next one. Go back and forth between these holds.

It is a great finger strength routine, great for the core, your kip motion for campusing and power endurance. If there is a wall and you get tired place one foot on and if there isn't, then move to bigger holds!

Training with Piz: Climbing is for Kids

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com  
www.camp-usa.com  
www.scarpa.com  
www.sterlingrope.com  
www.americanalpineclub.org  
www.brewersledge.com  
www.windx-treme.com

Check out the link of a 9 year old climbing at the Red River Gorge.
Her technique is amazing.

Watch her
-ability to lock off to make long moves (for her)
-her perfect use of twisting to reach holds (backstepping)
-her high stepping
-her shake out
-look at her foot placements
-remain calm
-keep moving
man the list goes on. What a joy to watch and think about a 9 year old being able to lead and stay focused. I am very impressed!

http://www.climbing.com/news/whats-next-for-9-year-old-angie-scarth-johnson/              

Treadwall Training with Piz: Shoes

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piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Check out my little reminder on why you should wear your good shoes while training.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSRYesDFZOA&feature=youtu.be

Wear good shoes while training. If you don't, you just ingrain bad footwork and habits into your technique and then when you are trying your project, your feet wont know how to behave!

I work out on a steep Treadwall and if I am wearing old shoes or shoes that are not downturned or a different pair than what I normally wear for most routes, my feet tend to respond differently when I am outside.

When I was young and a competitive golfer (yes I was at one time) one of my coaches told me that Perfect Practice Makes Perfect. He would say that as my buddies and I were trying to hit the guy driving the golf cart who was picking up range balls. That kind of horseplay was fun and there really is no better feeling than tagging that cart, but it doesn't help your golf game. It just ingrains the bad habits that you do not want.

So next time you are jumping around and goofing off while at the gym or even outside. Ask yourself, is this really something that I need to work on or am I just working on my circus tricks.

Training with Piz: Ape Index

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piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Let's talk about the Ape Index for a little bit.

It is a measure of the ratio of an individuals arm span relative to their height. That definition is used all over the Internet and is not specific to rock climbing, even though many climbers believe that it is a specific climbing term.

Anyway, if you have a positive ape index then you have a longer wing span when compared to your height and a negative one if your arms are shorter than your height.

What can this indicate about you as a climber and about what potential that you have as a climber?
Well here are the conclusion that I have arrived at after many years of observing those around me at the crag, gym or boulders.

• First and foremost it doesn't mean much. Most people use it as a crutch to provide a reason for failure/success. I have seen negative ape indexers send the same routes at positive ape indexers
• Many an accomplished rock climbers are not only "short in height," but additionally have a 0 or negative ape index.
• Having a negative ape index just makes a climber have to be better technically, in addition to needing to be dynamic and flexible. By being good dynamically, a climber can still reach what others may lock off to grab. Also, while being flexible, the climber can use a variety of foot placements and body positions to make accessing holds possible.
• Strength and power are also requirements for someone who is shorter, but that goes the same for someone who is taller and with a positive ape index.
• The argument that because you can reach it you have an easier time is just a partial truth. In some instances having a positive ape index is a clear advantage, but experience has taught me that just because I can reach it, doesn't mean that I have the skill to use it or climb the route or problem. The demands on the rest of your body are high, especially on overhanging and roof terrain.
• I would say that having the extra length from a positive ape index comes in handy on poorly bolted routes and when placing/removing traditional climbing gear.
• It is not cool when none of your long sleeve clothing fits properly and you must have things tailored.
• Personally, I have had the reach and it can do a few things. First it makes you think that you need to pull harder because you are so extended. (So I trained power to compensate for my bad technique) Secondly, it can make you get extended on your feet creating a situation where you are only used to being stretched out.(I became a predominantly a low foot technical climber) Then, you have to retrain yourself to climb with high feet/crunched up.(One stay at the Red gave me back the ability to climb with scrunched up feet.
• The bottom line is that your climbing style, strengths/weaknesses, favorite routes/boulders are partially determined by your body type. And that you can train to overcome any shortcomings that your body type may present.

Training with Piz: Weighted Straight Arm Sit-Ups with Tension Leg Extensions

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piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

The is a great way to work on your core. The sit up can be modified in many ways and here is one that involves being coordinated!

Instructions:

1. Grab a weight or dumb bell that you can perform a normal sit-up with (less weight for higher reps and building strength and more weight to work power and explosiveness).
2. Place a appropriately thick rubber band around your feet or ankle and perform leg extensions while doing the sit-up.
3. The goal is to extend your legs at the bottom of the move (as in when they are nearest the floor) while also being flat on your back and just keeping your hands off the floor behind your head.
4. Things to keep in mind, keep breathing regularly, keep tension in your legs the entire time and be sure to keep it fun. If you prefer a shake weight that mists your face that is an acceptable modification to the exercise.
5. As usual, I do four reps of this for 40 seconds as it fits into my circuit training program.

Training with Piz: Controlling Your Body

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piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

In this current video: http://www.rockandice.com/video-gallery/adam-ondra-sending-move-5-15b
Adam Ondra is climbing and in absolute control of his body while in this video.

I want you to watch the following things: (His actions are calculated and precise).

• notice how well he puts his feet back on the wall after he cuts them. (strong core/great footwork)
• watch his core throughout each movement. (it doesn't sag on the steep terrain/staying tight is best on overhanging rock)
• watch how he uses momentum to make reaches to the next grip. (he is not locking off nor lunging, but almost swinging and pushing hard with his feet and then tightening his core upon grabbing the next hold, then finally relaxing)
• watch how his body falls into a natural position where he is on a straight arm rather than a contracted arm (bent/locked off) (he hangs as a child would on a jungle gym it is most efficient to be able to "let go" on holds.)
• watch the speed at which he can climb (decreases pump/time on bad holds/knows where he is going)
• listen to his breathing (this is a huge part of being successful (don't hold your breath) promote blood and oxygen flow to decrease being oxygen deprived)

I am sure that I missed something else, but the big question that you need to ask yourself concerns whether or not you are doing some or all of these things while you climb. If you are not then you are building in small ways to fail when you are attempting to climb at your max.

You actually are never climbing at your maximum if you don't have these physical things under control and the mental game too. Check out Eric Horst's: Maximum Climbing book to rethink how you approach your mental training for climbing and your life.

Treadwall Training with Piz: Keeping a Logbook

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piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

This one describes the information that I record regularly about my training sessions.
I apologize about having to click on the you tube link, but blogger doesn't like videos that are longer than a few seconds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JwdvyhnXyY&feature=youtu.be

Start keeping track of what you do. You will quickly find out what you are and what you are not working on! Then you wont wonder why your training is or is not working effectively!

Let me know if you have any questions, I would love to discuss them here on the blog so everyone can learn.

Oh yeah, I will clearly describe my training cycle on the Treadwall in a future video. Stay tuned!

Have a great week!

piz : )

Training with Piz: Leg Raises on Rings

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piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Here is another version of leg lift. This would be a progression from using some fixed point: such as a dip bar or between two solid objects.

Focus on keeping your core tight, legs straight and arms locked off at 90 degrees.
Raise your legs to your waist or above and then back to just before.
Focus on being under control and attempt to not allow your legs to hang freely below you at any time.
It is also important to not go so quickly with the movement that you are not under control.
Focus on good form and determine a proper number for you to repeat in about 3 sets.

How does this apply to your climbing?
If you are climbing any kind of overhanging terrain and your feet cut, you will have to get them back on the wall while maintaining control. This will assist you in that process.

Training with Piz: Muscle Ups

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piz : )

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The Muscle Up is a tough movement to perfect.
It is a great progression from doing dips and box dips.
What is nice is that it combines a pull up with a press.
The challenge comes in the form of the transition between the two.

I find that this is a great mantle type of move that requires a lot of body control, coordination and timing.

Step One:
Start with your hands gripped on the ring so that your palms are facing each other and your pinkie fingers are closest to the floor.
Step Two:
Pull up explosively and bring your elbows in against your chest.
Step Three:
Then with an upward kip (a upward thrusting leg movement you can watch in the video), transition your hands below your elbows and complete the press.

If this move is too difficult to complete then you can do it from the stand and jump up and into the press, eliminating the pull up and kip. You can build up the strength from there to complete the entire movement.

Training with Piz: One Arm Pull-Up

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piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Here is a way in which you can develop your one arm pull up skills.

Use a towel or rope or sling or whatever and lower your grip on it while your other hand is on a normal jug.
Do reps and lower your hand until you don't need it anymore.
Over a period of a few weeks/months depending on where you are at physically, you will eventually be able to do a one arm pull up.

I don't really do these more than once a month and that might even be a stretch, more like once every two or three months.

There are not really too many routes that require the skill, but having that lock off power is huge when you are trying to boulder or climb at your limit.

As with any type of training, doing too much can injure you and not being properly warmed up will injure you even faster.

Training with Piz: One Leg Squat, with Oppostie Arm Raise on Balance Disk

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piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Here is a great way to work on your advanced balance, leg strength and core tension.
You end up working your quads and stabilizers throughout your body.

Instructions

• Stand on balance disk on one leg with opposite arm extended above your head holding bar.
• Squat with the weight of your body on your heel, while extending the opposite leg in front of you.
• Attempt to go as low as possible. You may need to perform this next to the wall if you don't have the balance.
• Repeat for a given time and perform 3-5 reps

This is a difficult version of a simple and effective exercise. You need to decide whether or not to use the balance disk or the additional weight.

Training with Piz: Knee Raises on Rope

If you are lucky enough to have a rope at your gym there are many movements that you can work on.

Knee Raises while hold onto the rope are a fun way to work your arms, lock off strength, grip strength, abs and legs.

Instructions:

1. Grab the rope with one hand high and the other one low.
2. Lock off with the low hand and then raise your knees at the same time.
3. Repeat the motion being sure to raise them as high as possible.
4. On the way down be sure not to let them free hang. It is best to stop lowering your legs before they hit vertical.
5. Perform reps of 30 seconds or a specific number number.
6. After one set change the high hand on the rope and repeat. 

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Training with Piz: Sloper Pops with Fixed Feet

A "pop" is a motion where you are holding onto any type of hold and suddenly "pop" off and grab back onto the hold. It is used on the campus, finger and systems boards.

You also can do this from one hold to another. It is not so much a dyno because we are not looking for the biggest movement, rather the contact strength required to hang on to a difficult hold. Combine this with a adjustable systems board and you can practice "pops" on many angles and holds. Not only will it work your foot work and core tension, but your ability to dead point and stay on and move off "bad" holds.

*Be sure to start working the "pop" on good holds and work your way down to the smaller and more challenging ones in order to prevent injury.

This one is on the sloper balls. The steeper the angle the tougher it is to stay on the wall.

Instructions:

1. Find the best angle to start.
2. Grab onto the wall and fix your feet.
3. "Pop" your hands from the lower sloper balls to the next level up.
4. Lock your core and feet so as not to cut them.
5. Return your hands one at a time back to the start position.
6. Repeat 6-8 times over 3 reps with a 3 minute break in between. 

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Training wth Piz: Medium Crimp Typewriters

The Typewriter is a great exercise to increase your power endurance and grip strength.
It works, your hands, back, forearms, hand and finger strength (depending on what you hold) and your over all pulling power.

As you can see in the video, I am failing badly due to it being placed later in my training program.

I suggest that you always begin new exercises on the best holds possible and over time and mastery of the movement should you switch to smaller holds.

With great practice of this you could add a weight belt to increase the challenge.

Instructions:

1. Pull up on your bar or fingerboard with a wide grip.
2. Lock off at a 90 degree angle with your arms
3. Hold the lock off position and move all the way to the right and back all the way to the left until your chin is over each hand.
4. Repeat this process for a time period and repeat 2-3 reps. (15- 30 seconds depending on the climbers experience)

As with any of these movements that I have posted, over doing any one of them will lead to possible injuries. It is likely that if you try to do them all with out rest that you will have finger and elbow problems.

One more thing to note is that I do not provide a specific training program for any of these movements. It is up to you to identify what you are weak at and then to choose the appropriate exercises that will develop that specific area.

As long as you are systematic about what you do and how train, you will see increases in performance. It is the "training" where you just go to the gym and do a little of this and that that are truly unproductive an a waste of time.

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Training wit Piz: Assisted Muscle Ups on Rings

The muscle up is a wonderful activity that works and develops a variety of muscle groups. From your upper and lower back, to your legs, core and triceps and biceps, the muscle up works them all!
It combines the dip (at the end) with the pull up (at the beginning) and the real challenge in the middle (the transition).

Instructions
(these instructions are brief, the muscle up takes a while to master depending on your fitness level)

1. The first thing that you have to do is hold the rings with the proper grip. You want to have your palms and facing towards you and the bottom of your hand/wrist resting on the bottom of the ring.
2. Next, do the pull up motion quickly. (add a kip or upward hip and leg movement)
3. Next, pass through the transition into the dip.
4. It is key to fix your elbows at your side and keep your arms from flying away from your body. (that is where you can rip your shoulders out of place)
5. Then you finally, press (your dip motion) to the straight arm position

• Depending on your ability, you may do these in a try or two or you may have to back up and start with dips, and pull ups to develop your skills, also you may have to use the bar to get your first muscle ups down.
• The rings add the challenge of stabilizing muscles which makes it a truly full body training tool.
• I suggest having a spotter when you first try this move on the rings

How Much?
I woudl do this no more than once a week as a power exercise. You can do three sets of 10 (if you are up to it) If not try to start with 2-5 in three reps.

Good luck and be sure to scaffold your training so you do not get hurt!

Check this other blogger who spends a long time describing the muscle up in great detail: http://www.beastskills.com/the-muscle-up/

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Training with Piz: Round the Worlds

The Round the Worlds are a core and lock off exercise that can be done on any type of bar.

Instruction:

1. Grab onto the bar like a you are doing a pull-up (palms away from you, not towards you)
2. Pull up into a lock off position (arms should be close to making 90 degree angle) and move/spin around to place your lead hand on the other side of the bar.
3. Stop your swing and bring the other hand around (you will be set up to do another pull-up)
4. Repeat the motion as you go round and round the bar. You can change direction if you get dizzy.
5. Add weight after you become proficient with your body weight by using a weight vest or hold a dumb bell with your feet to increase the resistance and core work.

How Much?

• No more than once or twice a week of 2-3 reps of 10 with 360 degree rotations.

What if I cant do one of these?

• It would be possible to take weight off if you rigged a pulley in the middle of the bar to your waist and a few pounds. It might get all twisted up, but it would work.
• I would focus on climbing more before trying these specific movements and after a while this will be a way to add to your power/endurance.

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Training with Piz : Round the Block

Round the Block is a 4 move finger strength exercise that I created in order to develop finger strength over the period of  4 moves. It can be modified in many ways. Be creative!

 

This is great for times when you are climbing and you fail at the end of a sequence or boulder problem where the type of hold switches. Like when a boulder is all crimps and then turns open handed at the end and you can't hold on. You can recreate that on the finger board, in addition to many other situations.

 

Instructions:

1. Identify a series of 4 grips that you would like to work on. It can be jugs, crimps, slopers, pockets, anything you would like to get better at using.
2. Determine the order of the sequence, for example: jug to crimp to slope to pocket.
3. Attempt to move from each hold while in a lock off for 30 seconds, 2-3 reps once or twice a week will show results.
4. If you can not hold the lock off while doing the Round the Block then you may use one foot on a small jib to assist. Your goal will be to eventually be successful without your foot assist.
5. When starting off it is better to stay on bigger holds. Certain transitions can be extremely difficult. Be warmed up (especially the fingers) before doing the Round the Block. 

 

 

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme