December 16, 2013

Training with Piz: Pinch Repeater

video

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com  
www.camp-usa.com  
www.scarpa.com  
www.sterlingrope.com  
www.americanalpineclub.org  
www.brewersledge.com  
www.windx-treme.com  

The Pinch Repeater is a great way to work hand strength, core/body tension, footwork, and power if you are doing it without using your feet.

Set the wall at an angle where you can place your feet on good holds (keep them in place for the whole rep) and move your hands back and forth between the pinches. Attempt a certain number of movements of your hands or give an effort based on time. Either way you can monitor your progress.

The more that your body looses tension the more likely you will fall off sooner than you would with good technique.

Work on keeping your core tight and pushing hard with your legs. Also work on finding the body position that allows you to barely hold on to the pinches.

If you are campusing the pinches, work on the core tension to keep from swinging and the kip (leg pump) that helps you reach the holds above or below you.

You can do this with any hold on a systems board and if the board adjusts then you are psyched because you can increase the difficulty with the same holds.             

December 13, 2013

Treadwall Love from Andy Reather and Joe Kinder

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com  
www.camp-usa.com  
www.scarpa.com  
www.sterlingrope.com  
www.americanalpineclub.org  
www.brewersledge.com  
www.windx-treme.com
              

Check out the latest from Andy in Las Vegas!! A nice short about the obvious way that you can use a treadwall and why it is important!

http://www.joekindkid.com/2013/12/essentials-of-climbing-the-importance-of-endurance-featuring-andy-raether/

Training with Piz: Crimp Repeater Smears

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com  
www.camp-usa.com  
www.scarpa.com  
www.sterlingrope.com  
www.americanalpineclub.org  
www.brewersledge.com  
www.windx-treme.com

On your systems board (if possible adjust it to the proper angle) find two sets of pretty good crimps. Then paste your feet on the wall and move your hands up and down grabbing each crimp. Use your feet against the wall (without using actual footholds or jibs.)

This is a great one to help get your body in the proper position to hang on and pull on the holds. If you cant use the crimps use a size that works for you!

Definitely more of a pulling activity but you can learn to push on an overhanging wall too!
              

December 11, 2013

Random Collection

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com  
www.camp-usa.com  
www.scarpa.com
www.sterlingrope.com  
www.americanalpineclub.org  
www.brewersledge.com  
www.windx-treme.com

 Adam testing his pinch strength on a 45 degree overhang. There is a lot of weight hanging on those hands!
 My first holiday tree as a family man.
 Rowan enjoying some hot chocolate.
 Sarah Watson (CAMP athlete) Setting some routes while in her Supernova female harness!  http://camp-usa.com/products/harnesses/supernova-380.asp
 Nicole owning some reach throughs on the systems board.
 Justin and his classic wall sits with hand squeezers.
 Orson and his Arcteryx baby blanket. Train not included.
 Skinning to the top of Powderhorn ski area before they open. Man, I have to get my cardio back in shape. The legs feel fine, but the lungs could be feeling better! Nothing like knee deep powder on your first day out in a couple years!

December 6, 2013

Robb Reece Photos: Unaweep Canyon

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com  
www.camp-usa.com  
www.scarpa.com  
www.sterlingrope.com  
www.americanalpineclub.org  
www.brewersledge.com  
www.windx-treme.com

My friend CC and I went out to climb on and shoot some cool photos of a new route I established this fall. It is called Code Red Seven and climbs up a beautiful arete on super smooth granite. a non existent seam leads the way to a final small roof and boulder problem at the finish.

Good time and Thanks to Robb Reece for taking some great photos!






               

December 5, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: Side Pulling

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com  
www.camp-usa.com  
www.scarpa.com  
www.sterlingrope.com  
www.americanalpineclub.org  
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com

This problem gives you a good idea how to set a problem with short and wide side pulls.
It also allows you to see how the movement dictates the body position.
If you are not using your hips, feet and core properly you will fall off routes/problems that are similar to this.

So make sure you continue setting with intent so that you can get the desired results out of your training program

Thanks to Sarah Watson, another great CAMP-USA athlete for setting this one!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pu1vqoeYJ3k&feature=youtu.be

              

Training with Piz: Weighted Shoulder Circles

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com
www.camp-usa.com
www.scarpa.com  
www.sterlingrope.com  
www.americanalpineclub.org  
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com

Weighted Shoulder Circles
You can perform this exercise with or without weights.
It works on strengthening your rotator cuff region in your shoulder.

It is best to grab a comfortable weight (less weight is better) that you can hold out fully extended and make small forward and backward circular motions. It is not a race and each circle should be completed at the same pace.
Be sure to compliment the forward numbers with the reverse to get a balanced workout.

If you are looking for more of these types of movements because you have had or are currently working through shoulder issues, look at the bottom of the page for some more ideas. There are tons of ways to strengthen your rotator cuff and it is good to do a variety of exercises to evenly develop the weakness and or for preventative means. Regular maintenence will keep you climbing injury free for a long time so don't wait until you are injured. Start doing these at least once a week!

video
 
 
              

December 3, 2013

Great Traning Site from My Friend Mark Anderson

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com
www.camp-usa.com
www.scarpa.com
www.sterlingrope.com
www.americanalpineclub.org
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com 

              http://lazyhclimbingclub.wordpress.com/tag/hangboard-beta/

Mark has been focusing on training and improving his climbing performance for years.
In his home gym, he has been tenacious about building his finger strength along with the rest of his cllimbing specific needs.

Take a loot at his blog and training. I know you will get some great ideas from him and his work.

Plus, check out his new fingerboard and forthcoming book on climbing training!!

First Snow Fall of the Season

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com
www.camp-usa.com
www.scarpa.com
www.sterlingrope.com
www.americanalpineclub.org
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com
            


 The back yard, normally you are looking into Colorado National Monument and beautiful sandstone cliffs!
 Rowan getting ready to rumble. Jane was thoughtful and taught him how to throw snowballs at me : )
 Snowman time!
 The proper use of Menagerie Climbing holds.
 Enjoying our hard work.
 Jane and Orson came out to play too!
 Rowan loves to shovel anything and I mean anything!
 Our snowman wanted to eat Orson!
 An attempt at snow angels.
The deuce.

Janes Birthday and Craft Party!

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com
www.camp-usa.com
www.scarpa.com
www.sterlingrope.com
www.americanalpineclub.org
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com
               
 Thanksgiving week is always busy at our house. There are holiday parties, some vacation days and of course, Jane's birthday! This year I decided to surprise her with some friends at the house, a cake and a plate decorating night. Above, we have everyone trying to decide how to decorate their plate or mug with the colorful Sharpies that we could choose from.
 Two runners.
 Brandi and Che proud of their designs. So you are supposed to be able to cook them in the oven at 350 degrees for 30 minutes and the ink will stay.
Rowan was able to stay up with the big kids for just a little while : )
Unfortunately, my plates that I bought had a gloss on them that prevented the permanence of the night. So we have all the plates to look at now, but not touch! Oh well.
 The decorations were off the hook!
Proud artists