Rock Climbing with Rob Pizem: WindX-Treme

Showing posts with label WindX-Treme. Show all posts

February 14, 2014

Training with Piz: How Much is Too Much?

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

How much training is too much training?

This seems to be a big issue. As I talk with folks about how much they train, I get a lot a different answers.

Some people have been training/working out for years and have a high tolerance for pushing hard multiple days a week and some people are just entering into their new lifestyle and don't have the ability to go that hard or that much. Some have past injuries that they have to be aware of while some can become injured if pushed too hard one way or another.

So the answer lies within you. It is important to be honest with yourself about your current and past fitness level. In addition to any past or present injuries. Even when working with guidance, you can still over do it and work into negative gains. It is less likely to occur when working with someone everyday, but more possible when working remotely with someone. The day to day interaction and observations that a trained eye can make are immense, while following a script can be beneficial it also can lead to questions of whether or not you are doing things correctly.

The bottom line is that you have to listen to your body, no matter what you are doing and objectively identify how your training is going. Evaluate how you are feeling and go from there.

February 13, 2014

Training with Piz: Barbies

The Barbie is the NEW BURPEE

Just add a weighted bar to the mix and get after it.
What a great full body workout.
It focuses on your core, power in the legs with the jump,
oppositional muscles in your arms with the pushup,
cardio from the speed.

It's time to get down!

February 11, 2014

Dallas Weekend Wrap Up

I like to take photos of the planes for my son. This one is in Denver International in concourse B.

Who doesn't want cupcakes while on the road? mmm red velvet

Gary, he is in charge of the Texas Mountaineers Dallas chapter. Great guy, been climbing forever and really in touch with the climbing community. He wants people to create and be a part of a strong climbing community that keeps folks climbing for a long time!

A few of the clinic takers getting ready for a big trip to Queen Creek! Have fun fellas!

Bathroom decor at the gym!

Lots of peeps getting ready for my two slide shows on Sat night!! We had a pot luck too and it was great to meet and talk with everyone.

We were reminded how our efforts with the Access Fund and our local climbing areas help keep them open. Don't be afraid or think it is a waste to join up and participate in events like trail building or meetings with land owners or land regulators! It all helps and areas only stay open because of dedicated people like you!

February 7, 2014

Weekend Update: Summit Climbing Gym in Dallas, Slide Shows, Clinics and the Texas Mountaineers! Come on Down!

February 5, 2014

Training with Piz: How Much Do I Train? AND 1 Arm Negatives

Many people ask me how often do I train. Here are the facts.

My situation.

I am married and have two young boys under the age of 3.
I have a full time job as a high school science teacher at an alternative high school.
I am sponsored by 4 great companies which require time and energy throughout the year at events, trade shows and whatever.
My second job is as the head trainer at the Grand Junction Climbing Center.
My third job consists of working with clients around the U.S. on remote climbing training programs.
My wife works and loves to run competitively.
My forth job consists of public speaking engagements around the U.S.
Most of my days start at 4:30 or 5am and end around 8pm before I have any "my" time.

My training.

I circuit train on Tuesday and Thursday mornings at 5am for 45 minutes
I Treadwall once a week for about 1 hour.
I use a fingerboard, a systems board and a campus board once a week on Thursdays all together for about an hour.

Outdoor climbing.

If the weather permits I get one day a weekend.
Occasionally, I get both days a weekend.

Total Time Committed to My Training Per Week

3.5 hours a week

Total Time Committed to Actual Climbing Per Week

1 hour if no outdoor climbing
1 hour plus whatever can be done with 1 day of outdoor climbing.

So, my work out time is very specific and very specialized to meet my climbing and strength needs. I don't waste time just doing stuff for the sake of doing it. I look at where I am weak and what my current/future projects require and train to meet those needs. I write a plan and follow it and record my results. Training does not have to be all consuming but it does have to be focused and to the point.

With those few hours a week, I can maintain a high level of fitness and complete my projects in a reasonable amount of time. If I had more time to climb, I would complete them more quickly, but I really want to be the best husband and father that I can be, so it is all good!

Another great way to work your lock off strength.

Be sure to be on a jug and to try to center your self over your arm.

As you get even stronger you can try to not be centered over the middle of your body (off set).

January 31, 2014

Training with Piz: The High/Low Crimp Foot Cut

This is another way to work core tension and compression.

Grab the same crimp close to full span on a steep wall. (this is at 45 degrees)
Then cut feet and place then exactly where you were once standing. Choose awkward foot placements in order to increase the difficulty.

Repeat 3-5 moves in a row and then repeat with the opposite hand placement.

This is powerful and explosive and requires engaging your whole body from finger tips thru your forearms and core down thru your legs and finally ending at your toes.

A great move to learn how to engage every part of your body.

January 28, 2014

Training with Piz: Fingerwalking

Fingerwalking

Shuffling on various sizes of crimps can be good. Start on a big piece of wood like a 2x4 and move down to smaller and smaller crimps. Ideally your feet will be off the ground, but you can have one foot on to develop the skill.
Every time that you move is with a small kip of the hips (pop up).
Be sure to use open hands and no thumbs!!

January 17, 2014

City Rock Climbing Gym: Training Review

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

So, I rarely get to check out other climbing gyms. But family trips offer a few minutes after the kids go to sleep to sometimes try one out. Over winter break we found ourselves in Colorado Springs and I had an hour and a half at the City Rock Climbing Gym.

Because I was very excited to climb a bit, I made the best of that time at this cool place to train and climb. I was able to meet up with a random gym patron and trade belays instead of using one of the many auto belays. For me, the gym experience is about climbing with a partner and not trying to be alone inside a facility. The route setting was great and I had a good time trying to bang out pitches in such a short amount of time before closing.

The main climbing area was sectioned off from the rest of the facility which was nice. There was no worries about whether or not a slack liner, boulderer, other climber, or anyone would bump into you. Plus the walls were tall and slabby to wickedly overhung! I forgot what it was like to get pumped indoors (my local gym is only about 20ft tall which makes it pretty tough).

After my partner had to leave, I choose to explore the other facets of the the gym. There was a slack line area and a bouldering area that were spacious and popular. Lastly, the upstairs was the training area. This is what I was most interested in because climbing routes can only do so much.

There were three adjustable systems boards that were operated by a winch.All were 12ft wide by 12ft or 14ft tall. SICK!! The board at my gym is also adjusted by the winch method and I feel that even though it serves its purpose and works that it is not the best set up. The reason that I feel it is not the best is that the winch is typically only attached to the center of the board. This allows any dynamic movements to create movement or oscillation in the board, especially if you are on one side or the other.
My other observation was that there was no pattern to the placement of the holds. There was no way to work a specific hold type size or movement in a systematic manner. I feel that the systems board is an amazing tool to utilize in a gym but that most gyms don't set them properly.

Systems board can be used in a number ow ways. One of which to complete repeated movements of a certain type. In doing this you can really improve a certain finger strength, hand strength or specialized movement. I have many of these explained in past postings.
The other way to use a systems board is to climb a problem that works a certain skill set or holds and to then slowly lower the angle until it becomes difficult. Then send it at the steeper and steeper angles. What you will find is that you will have to relearn how to climb the route and how to grip the holds and how to place your body with each angle increase. It is very powerful. This is one way that the European climbers have been training for years!

The yellow photo shows their extensive campus terrain! I liked it. The slopers were poorly made though in that the screws stuck out and you could rip your skin on your palms. They need to be deep set. The padding was nice and the boards were spaced properly.

I really liked this set up, mostly. The bar is rigged on chains (which I don't like) but is two diameters for pull ups and whatever else you want to use it for (stretching and such). Plenty of space for multiple people to use it.

It is welded and painted.

In trying to use all their space efficiently, they have hung lots of training camps rungs for finger boarding. My problem is that you can rest your arm against the wall which effects your finger boarding.

Overall, it is a great place to train at and it has lots of potential!

January 14, 2014

Training with Piz: Compression Training

Compression is required on all kinds of climbing routes. I would say there are more bouldering compression problems out there than routes, but they exist. Some climbers can call themselves compression climbers and they normally get crushed on all other kinds of routes. So it is in essence a specialty skill, but one that should not be over looked. Font in France has tons of compression problems

To Train:

1 Find a set of holds and a wall if you are lucky enough that is overhung where two good open holds can be squeezed together at your maximum reach. Try to set the feet so that they are at a similar max

2 Pull on the wall and hold tight for a given time.

A good progression of this exercise is to move from jugs, to open hand with thumbs and without thumbs and finally to crimps.

If you have an adjustable wall, which more and more gyms are investing in. You just have to kick back the angle to increase the difficulty!

Get out there and train!

January 13, 2014

Training with Piz: Goal Setting, The Secret to Success and Happiness

I think this post is one of the more important ones that I will write. This is because you need to know why you are training and what you are training for. It is mind boggling to me when I think about those people who can train just for the sake of training. Cheers to those who can go to the gym or wherever and give it their all with no end or big goal in site. I am not one of those people!

Also, for those who have goals that are years off in the distance. That dedication is Olympic and to those I salute you. But for the rest of us, our goals are more short term and in our "near" future.
Looking ahead 1, 2 or even 6 months is pretty easy and not that challenging to stay on task throughout the hard labor of preparation.

This post is more about goal choosing. It is already understood that having goals drives you to complete them. Additionally, creating a timeline where you move closer in stages truly makes reaching that goal a forgone conclusion. Like anything, all you have to do is follow through with your best effort and stay true to the cause.

As I have grown older, my personal climbing goals have migrated all over the place. I want to complete new single pitch climbs that are good for all abilities, I want to travel and do first ascents in the best style possible and I want to establish a few more big routes with lots of belays in them. Externally, I want to positively promote our sport and create an open forum of climbing/training information for the community, now and in the future.

Sounds easy and like I know what I want. Well it is not that easy. Setting goals as a single climber is pretty simple, add in the love of your life, a few kids, a career, other life responsibilities and the clarity seems to be muddied.

Someone in my shoes cannot choose a goal that requires, 150% of effort because you will simply not have enough hours in the day. (I know this because I don't have time between, family, career, other job, freelancing, sponsorship responsibilities, and on and on and on.) I used to have that free time and it, along with my job took all of my time. Starting slicing up the hours that you can commit to something and you better be choosing goals that actually can be achieved within the given 24 hours that each day offers.

The risk of choosing beyond your time constraints is being unhappy with your progress or a lack thereof and never actually completing it. Setting goals that you never complete is NOT the goal at all. Aiming high and not even shooting will never lead you on a positive growth path in your life.
On the other hand, the old saying that nothing good came for free/easily is glaring you right in the face when you shoot to low on the spectrum. So where does that leave us? Where does that leave someone in my shoes?

My Plans for 2014
I have come to the conclusion that local projects are a priority and the only far away project that I will invest my heart and soul in will be something where I can stay there for a couple weeks at a time. That limits my choices for far away objectives due to my work schedule.
I will not to set my self up for failure by staying away from low percentage types of routes and routes that depend on conditions. When you have to schedule your climbing days a month or two out and you can not change due to other obligations, it is best not to be working on the project when the conditions are impossible.
I will choose goals that allow me to be on different rock types, so that I don't get bored of one style or location.
Finally, I will choose goals that will build so that they are preparing me the big final goal way off in the future.

Thanks for listening and get outside and have an adventure.

piz : )

January 9, 2014

Training with Piz: Big Moves

Lock off with the low hand (that will keep you in tighter to the wall).
Grip like mad with the high hand, hold on like you are about to fall off a building top!
Engage your core to prevent sagging. Once you sag, you are off the hold and wall.
Push hard with your feet,by not doing this it is difficult to engage your core.
Visualize sticking the hold and how you will look doing it. That way you just have to make it look like it should and you will be in the proper body position.
No feet cutting. Once they are off, you are off.

Be sure to rest between attempts and to rest before switching lead hands.
When you first start try to stick a good hold, no crimps at the start unless you consider yourself an advanced level climber.

Have fun!!

Thoughts on the New Earthtreks Gym

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

So, I only had a few minutes at the gym, but I immediately loved it. I like the walls and the shapes and the texture, I like the floors and the open space and the route setting. I like the bouldering. The bathrooms were clean and there was tons of open space. It is not a cramped gym, which is nice.
I like the systems boards but did not think that they were set as they could be. Also the fingerboard area seemed like it was an after thought. The cardio zone with weights was sweet and would work nicely for individuals, but not as nice for groups of people at once.
Overall this is a rad place that I would have a membership at if I lived on the front range. Or else I would be working there!

They have balls. Lots of them. I use the yoga balls regularly at my local gym for all kinds of core work and strength training. Don't be afraid to ask someone at the gym to find out how to use any equipment.

There is plenty of cardio equipment. All new and top of the line. You can use this stuff and watch folks climbing in the main area. Not a bad idea. Also there is a ton of room between the equipment and the workout area so that people are not stepping on each other. If you notice there are rings and slings hanging from the ceiling. another nice feature that keeps them off the floor and out of the way while in the workout area. No lost slings or Atomic balls at this gym

You want power? Well, check out the campus zone. It is wide open and ready to be used by all who dare.

The place is beautiful, clean and has routes for everyone that are over 40ft tall

Can't lead yet, no problem. There are tons of top ropes. Also the routes are set by color of the holds. No more tape to have to try to see. That is way nicer than the old way.

Climber to show scale on the wall.

More training on the adjustable systems boards.

January 7, 2014

Training with Piz: Two Move Finger Board Repeater Pops

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

Choose two different but good holds that you can move back and forth on.
Start hanging on one pair of holds and then without touching the wall or floor "pop" or move to the next one. Go back and forth between these holds.

It is a great finger strength routine, great for the core, your kip motion for campusing and power endurance. If there is a wall and you get tired place one foot on and if there isn't, then move to bigger holds!

Upcoming Slide Shows

A Winter Day in Ouray

On the last day of the semester I left this little guy at home and took my students to Ouray for a day of ice climbing and cross country skiing!

We had the gear!

The ice was fat!

The kids did great!

They thought it was tough!

They tackled a couple ice lines.

After a quick lunch we went and got a short ski in near the ice park.

The day was perfect and we even saw some "wild" life on while skiing through the woods.

Making tracks!

Enjoying the winter temps in some warm clothes!

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

January 6, 2014

Holiday Pictures!

D.O.U.B.L.E. T.R.O.U.B.L.E.

This guy is sitting up and crawled over the holiday!

And of course, my wonderful wife made some delicious cookies for us to enjoy!

January 1, 2014

Training with Piz: Climbing is for Kids

December 16, 2013

Training with Piz: Pinch Repeater

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com
www.camp-usa.com
www.scarpa.com
www.sterlingrope.com
www.americanalpineclub.org
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com

The Pinch Repeater is a great way to work hand strength, core/body tension, footwork, and power if you are doing it without using your feet.

Set the wall at an angle where you can place your feet on good holds (keep them in place for the whole rep) and move your hands back and forth between the pinches. Attempt a certain number of movements of your hands or give an effort based on time. Either way you can monitor your progress.

The more that your body looses tension the more likely you will fall off sooner than you would with good technique.

Work on keeping your core tight and pushing hard with your legs. Also work on finding the body position that allows you to barely hold on to the pinches.

If you are campusing the pinches, work on the core tension to keep from swinging and the kip (leg pump) that helps you reach the holds above or below you.

You can do this with any hold on a systems board and if the board adjusts then you are psyched because you can increase the difficulty with the same holds.

December 13, 2013

Training with Piz: Crimp Repeater Smears

December 11, 2013

Random Collection

Adam testing his pinch strength on a 45 degree overhang. There is a lot of weight hanging on those hands!

My first holiday tree as a family man.

Rowan enjoying some hot chocolate.

Sarah Watson (CAMP athlete) Setting some routes while in her Supernova female harness! http://camp-usa.com/products/harnesses/supernova-380.asp

Nicole owning some reach throughs on the systems board.

Justin and his classic wall sits with hand squeezers.

Orson and his Arcteryx baby blanket. Train not included.

Skinning to the top of Powderhorn ski area before they open. Man, I have to get my cardio back in shape. The legs feel fine, but the lungs could be feeling better! Nothing like knee deep powder on your first day out in a couple years!