Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!
piz : )
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Repeaters are when you repeat a given movement. We have come up with tons of repeaters in our training program and they work really well to develop hand and core and finger strength.
The side pull crimp repeater is a great way to work on two different hold sizes and grip positions at a variety of angles.(if you have an adjustable systems board)
If crimps are a weakness, then make one or both of the holds that size (but two different styles) if you are having problems with slopers, you can focus on those types of holds. It works with any combination.
I chose side pulls and small crimps.
I fix my feet in place (that means that I do not move them throughout the set)
Then move my hands to and from the holds in a systematic manner.
If I lead with the right hand, then I come down with the right hand and vice verse.
I always attempt to make sure that I am leading and descending from the holds the same amount of time.
With respect to body position, focus on pushing down hard with your feet, focus on a tight core and adding a small inward dynamic movement to initiate each hand movement. Be as in control as possible (the more your body swings) the less likely you will do lots of them. The more your body swings, the more energy you will use in trying to keep yourself on the board. If you want to send your route/boulder problem you will not want to waste energy on things other than the movements!
Get out there and come up with your own exercises!