January 18, 2013

Training with Piz : Round the Block

Round the Block is a 4 move finger strength exercise that I created in order to develop finger strength over the period of  4 moves. It can be modified in many ways. Be creative!
 
This is great for times when you are climbing and you fail at the end of a sequence or boulder problem where the type of hold switches. Like when a boulder is all crimps and then turns open handed at the end and you can't hold on. You can recreate that on the finger board, in addition to many other situations.
 
Instructions:
  1. Identify a series of 4 grips that you would like to work on. It can be jugs, crimps, slopers, pockets, anything you would like to get better at using.
  2. Determine the order of the sequence, for example: jug to crimp to slope to pocket.
  3. Attempt to move from each hold while in a lock off for 30 seconds, 2-3 reps once or twice a week will show results.
  4. If you can not hold the lock off while doing the Round the Block then you may use one foot on a small jib to assist. Your goal will be to eventually be successful without your foot assist.
  5. When starting off it is better to stay on bigger holds. Certain transitions can be extremely difficult. Be warmed up (especially the fingers) before doing the Round the Block. 
 
 
video
Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

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