August 26, 2013

Training with Piz: Controlling Your Body

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

In this current video:
Adam Ondra is climbing and in absolute control of his body while in this video.

I want you to watch the following things: (His actions are calculated and precise).
  • notice how well he puts his feet back on the wall after he cuts them. (strong core/great footwork)
  • watch his core throughout each movement. (it doesn't sag on the steep terrain/staying tight is best on overhanging rock)
  • watch how he uses momentum to make reaches to the next grip. (he is not locking off nor lunging, but almost swinging and pushing hard with his feet and then tightening his core upon grabbing the next hold, then finally relaxing)
  • watch how his body falls into a natural position where he is on a straight arm rather than a contracted arm (bent/locked off) (he hangs as a child would on a jungle gym it is most efficient to be able to "let go" on holds.)
  • watch the speed at which he can climb (decreases pump/time on bad holds/knows where he is going)
  • listen to his breathing (this is a huge part of being successful (don't hold your breath) promote blood and oxygen flow to decrease being oxygen deprived)
I am sure that I missed something else, but the big question that you need to ask yourself concerns whether or not you are doing some or all of these things while you climb. If you are not then you are building in small ways to fail when you are attempting to climb at your max.

You actually are never climbing at your maximum if you don't have these physical things under control and the mental game too. Check out Eric Horst's: Maximum Climbing book to rethink how you approach your mental training for climbing and your life.


  1. A couple other areas that I think are often overlooked that he does very well: 1) he is moving his center of gravity into the next position of balance before he moves his hand, and 2)he initiates this movement from the feet through the legs, and most importantly follows through with his core.

    Simple rules: Precise feet, find balance, use momentum to generate upward movement, lever off of straight arms


    PS - I have enjoyed following your blog.

  2. Thanks Brett. Good points to mention. It's just a reminder that good climbing occurs from good technique, not luck or body type or whatever.

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