piz : )
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Unfortunately the video file is just a bit too large for blogger to handle, so I had to link it.
My latest project on the desert sandstone is comprised of some difficult liebacking on small crimps.
I figured that the best way to set with intent for my next batch of problems would be to use lots of crimps (good) and find a way to simulate the moves on my project.
The route has long and short reaches with no feet (as in nothing to stand on but the opposing wall).
So, I am trying to set routes with a minimum of two challenging moves (moves that are tougher than the rest of the route), while keeping the over all challenge of the route high in between those moves.
I find that while on my project that I have to fight a few spots with major barn door potential. Since the feet are so poor (nonexistent) and that holds are so small, there is no way to recover once it starts.
If I can simulate that feeling, then I can prepare for being in the best position to not be pulled off the climb. So by placing the transition moves in the problem from one side to another, it allows me to evenly train my liebacks and fight the ensuing barn door as my fatigue increases.
Another problem that I have on my project is that I am able to do the one type of move very well, but when the move changes to a long reach or a powerful reach, I get shut down. So those two transition moves are designed to simulate the end of a sequence of something that I am strong at and force me into something that I am weak at.
Lastly, I try to keep my feet high the entire time because that is what is required on the project outside.
The biggest thing that I have to watch out for or training too much on the Treadwall and not being properly rested for my day on the real project outside. Add to that working full time, having a second job, raising two kids and supporting my wife, it makes it pretty tough to be rested for the project. No matter, I will get there and it will be fun to continue strengthening my weaknesses.
piz : )