Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!
piz : )
Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com
As always watch the video for pleasure first and then rewatch and look to learn technique and for flaws in my technique. You will soon be able to identify when I will fail once you learn my body positioning and when it starts to break down.
There are a few ways in which you can train to get power endurance.
You can do pyramids or 4x4's while bouldering in the gym or you can have more fun (in my perspective) and use a Treadwall.
I can set a powerful problem on the Treadwall and then climb it an an appropriate pace.
Each move must be challenging/powerful.
Each move must require core tension.
Moves can be dynamic.
Holds can be good or bad.
Holds should work on your weaknesses.
You can incorporate side pulls, cross thru's, under clings, compression moves, matches etc.
No rest holds or positions should be set.
Once I can do the problem, I see how many laps that I can do without falling off in a row.
This video shows that I am just beginning to build my power-endurance since I fall off just a few moves from the start.
Once I can get 2-3 laps in a row, then I will add a shake on the fingerboard in between (typically for 1-2 minutes) between each lap. The hope would be that I would recover, but the reality is that I get more pumped because I am on tiny holds.
When I know that I am in good power endurance shape I can do hard problems in a row with the 1 minute shake on bad holds. I typically will shoot to be able to do 3 laps in a row with that method. (that is about a 70 ft route)
Get out there and have some fun being fit!
piz : )