Pee Wee Sends!

Pee Wee just sent Necronomicon placing all the gear on an old roof crack project of mine.
He has given it a grade of 13d/14a cause as with all cracks the hand size will change the difficulty for all suitors.
Way to go Pee Wee for stepping up and getting psyched on this route and giving it the first free ascent in great style.
Check out http://www.climberism.com/jean-pierre-ouellet-aka-peewee-sends-necronomicon/
and Pee Wee's blog for more information.


piz : )

The British are Coming!

 Tom giving an off width a run with a good spot and Chris shooting some video.

 Wide cracks are fun? Well for some folks. They are a great challenge and make you wear long pants and sleeves and even knee pads and elbox pads too!

 Jesse getting ready for the roof crack of all roof cracks!

 Brian helping Pee Wee zip up his jacket. Pee Wee is special.

 Pee Wee instructing the Wideboyz how to make proper tape gloves.

 The Widboyz and me. Thomas on the left and Pete on the right. Yeah they are little guys, but great climbers!

 The crew coming the the roofs.

Tom doing some inversions

 I invited some friends to climb at the roof crack area in Moab. My friend Jesse, Pee Wee and Brian joined me and the UK Wideboyz (Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker) their photgrapher Alex and their cameraman Chris Alstrin.
Their goal was to climb some more roof cracks, widestuff and have some fun. Here, Jess is belaying Pee Wee as he is going for the first free ascent of one of my longstanding projects, the Necronomicon.

 Jesse taking in some roff crack boulder problems.

 Tom learning the moves on another route of mine called Army of Darkness

Brain hanging around learning the moves on Army of Darkness.
piz : )

3 Hours of Fun After Work on Monday

 Jason Huston and I went on a mission after work this past monday. We decided on the Long Dong Route on Kissing Couple in the Colorado National Monument. Since neither of us knew how to approach the route and there wasnt much daylight left, we brought our headlamps and expected to epic. After driving around in the park for a while we decided that we found the way down to the route. We threw on our packs and tightened our helmets and ran down the sketchy cliffs and drop offs until we reached the short chimney that accesses the beginning of the climb. So far, so good. As Jason had been climbing on more vertical sandstone as of late, I wanted him to take the first pitch of the climb. It was a thin crack with face holds that seemed exciting to protect after last nights rain. With slippery feet, he climbed to the top of the first pitch using up almost all the gear that we brought. I enjoyed the top rope and took the next two pitches of chimney. Jason went up the next section that contained a variety of movements and we hung out in the "belfry" just a short distance from the summit of the Kissing Couple. I climbed through bird poo and reached the top safely before dark! What a great day. Jason and I laughed our way up and down the route an made it home before dark. I think that I could get into this. To more adventures with good friends!

 Jason looking into the "Belfry" one pitch from the top.

 Me referencing our topo in the "Belfry", thanks to the mountain project for the beta and great comments from past ascensionists!

 Jason squeezing through the final move before the summit. Yes, he is crawling.

 Topping out on the Kissing Couple.

 Taking in the sunshine of Colorado National Monument. So glad that I live just a few minutes away! And loving my Tau Pullover from Arcteryx.

Of course the sun was in our eyes for this photo. The top of a desert tower is a sweet place to be!
piz : )

Fall

That is what I have been doing whenever I get a chance to work on a route that I bolted a few weeks back in Unaweep. I am enjoying the process of crimping and lie backing and gastoning my way up the slightly overhanging route. As I link through the opening sequences and shake at the third bolt, I feel drained. After a quick shake I push into the next powerful and balancy sequence that forces a barn door move with tiny feet. After climbing to the stone on tiny side pulls, I move into the stem and STAB at poor under cling above. At that point I am exhausted from the stress of the moves below and significantly powered down. The next moves are total compression to something that I fear will never feel like a shake. Making the next clip begins a new strange and balancy sequence that requires me to crimp the tiniest if tinnies and lunge sideways for a hold. Compression and faith keep me on the rock. Soon I am resting on a sloper foot and another side pull. A crimp traverse and a powerful clip takes me to the final sequence. Lie backing under cling side pulls I gain the stance at the last move. Slopey slippery feet test my mettle as reach for a side pull that always feels too small. Hand jams and fists take me to the anchors and the fatigue sets in.
Oh to try it again and attempt to get a little bit higher before succumbing to the lack of power and finger strength.
The Unaweeper, as I am calling it will be a nice route to complete as I have learned to appreciate falling in that dark corridor one pitch off the deck that is lies hidden within.

 Last moves to get to the jamming

 Shaking out after the entry moves of the climb

 Sticking the nasty little undercling.

Belaying the warm-up, Rowans Route. I do love my Arcteryx clothing!

ALL PHOTOS BY JESSE ZACHER
Get outside and have some fun.
piz : )

more tehipite photos by andrew burr

 second pitch 5.12 something

 pitch 2 5.12

 way up high following mike b up the blankness

 mike b walking the plank in the high sierra

the team at the top of Tehipite Dome
piz : )

Its been a while

Hey All,

I have just been hanging in Denver with my in-laws and participating in a family reunion. It has been a busy few days and a ton of fun. It is so wonderful to see so many families coming together to support each other and their parents. We got to watch a slide show that showcased everyone in the family. Great shots and wonderful insight into the how everyone turned out the way that they did. My wife's family are really wonderful and loving folks. I look forward to the reunion every year.

Rowan has been growing fast and each day seems to surprise Jane and I with his new expressions and coordination. We are tired and have changed a ton of diapers and will change many more! The late night feedings are exhausting but a great time to just sit quietly with Rowan and admire him while he eats. There is something special every time a baby falls a sleep in your arms.

As far as climbing has been going, I am stuck falling all over another new route in Unaweep. It is a wonderfully challenging sport climb chalk full of crimp side pulls, gastons and crappy feet. As much as I want to send the route in order to share it with the world, I am treasuring the exposure, whipping, falling and wobblers 150 ft off the deck and the tiny sharp holds that shred my tips after every burn. Unaweep is such a great place that contains many more classic trad and sport climbs. I can't wait until I find my next one to become obsessed about.

As soon as I download some more photos, I will update you on Rowan and The Unaweeper (the project in unaweep that continues to keep me from sending).

Get out and enjoy the fall. The best time of year for so many reasons.

piz : )

Rowan is Awesome

 I am thinking about... FOOD!

 Yeah, I really am this comfy. My dad wore this when he was a baby.

 I might want to be a boxer when I grow up.

 Don't just love a little bit of me, love ALL of me!

 I will smash this when I get bigger. Really, I am not joking.

 Spa treatment. Don't hate me cause I am beautiful.

 I get tired and grumpy too after long photo shoots.

Just go and away and let me rest please.
I love you all.
I hope you enjoyed a day in the life of Rowan Pizem : )
We enjoy everyday with him too!

piz and jane : )

Black Canyon Climbing Regulations Management Plan and Meeting

Here’s the info on the new proposed Black Canyon NP and Curecanti NRA Wilderness and Backcountry Management Plan.

I read over the plan and did not think that it was out of line or difficult to abide by.
If you have the chance get to the meeting or read it and send them your opinion.

Thanks

piz : )
WHEN?
September 21, 2011; Montrose, CO / 4:30 to 7:00 p.m.

WHERE?
Montrose Chamber of Commerce; 1519 East Main Street September 22, 2011; Gunnison, CO / 4:30 to 7:00 p.m.; Fred R. Field Western Heritage Center; 275 S. Spruce St.

WHERE CAN I READ THE CHANGES?
http://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?parkID=33&projectID=16726&documentID=43196

It would be great if Western Colorado Climbing Coalition, Telluride Mountain Club, Four Corners Climbers Coalition, the Montrose, Durango and Gunnison climbers could address this Plan.