That is what I have been doing whenever I get a chance to work on a route that I bolted a few weeks back in Unaweep. I am enjoying the process of crimping and lie backing and gastoning my way up the slightly overhanging route. As I link through the opening sequences and shake at the third bolt, I feel drained. After a quick shake I push into the next powerful and balancy sequence that forces a barn door move with tiny feet. After climbing to the stone on tiny side pulls, I move into the stem and STAB at poor under cling above. At that point I am exhausted from the stress of the moves below and significantly powered down. The next moves are total compression to something that I fear will never feel like a shake. Making the next clip begins a new strange and balancy sequence that requires me to crimp the tiniest if tinnies and lunge sideways for a hold. Compression and faith keep me on the rock. Soon I am resting on a sloper foot and another side pull. A crimp traverse and a powerful clip takes me to the final sequence. Lie backing under cling side pulls I gain the stance at the last move. Slopey slippery feet test my mettle as reach for a side pull that always feels too small. Hand jams and fists take me to the anchors and the fatigue sets in.
Oh to try it again and attempt to get a little bit higher before succumbing to the lack of power and finger strength.
The Unaweeper, as I am calling it will be a nice route to complete as I have learned to appreciate falling in that dark corridor one pitch off the deck that is lies hidden within.
Get outside and have some fun.
piz : )