Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!
piz : )
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Here are two videos of me trying my new problems. Each one has long reaches and cross throughs on 1 pad size crimps. (my weakness)
Have fun and let me know where I am going wrong and what I could do to be more efficient and use better technique!
Here are my two wild ideas for failing. I always like trying to figure this kind of stuff out, but I am usually wrong so take it with a grain of salt! I would definitely like hearing your opinion of these two ideas:
ReplyDeleteOn the first problem it looks like as you do more and more moves your ability to initiate moves with your lower body is getting worse and worse. For example, your hips start coming out and sagging which makes it harder for your feet to "push" you to the hold. This perhaps starts to become noticeable on the move where you match your hands and your feet cut on the right side.
For the second problem it looks like your foot positioning is off. Almost like you are doing a "reverse back-step." That is, your back-stepped foot is consistently low while your "flagged" foot is sitting on a hold that is too high (1:11). So your aren't able to push through with your back-stepped foot. You have the same foot positioning when you fail at 1:15.
Three things that look fairly solid: you are placing your feet carefully (even when you get tired), between moves you tend to get into a restful position (feet out and arms relaxed), and you are wearing a Mines t-shirt.
Thanks for posting,
Adam
Rob, I've thought long and hard about how to respond to your brave and self-deprecating post. You're post clearly shows the power of video analysis as a coaching tool. If you pause the first video at 0:32, 0:45, 0:53, 0:58, 1:03 and 1:13, you can see exactly where your feet could have been placed to for greater control of your core momentum at the deadpoint. Thank you for sharing such a bold and informative teaching method - Brilliant!
ReplyDeleteAs an example, 1:13 - 5 panels is a big move at this angle, if both your feet aren't higher. and your right foot needed to be further to the right to stabilize your momentum to the right.
PLJ
Great comments Adam and Peter. I appreciate your feedback and you both hit on points that I wanted to illustrate.
ReplyDeleteFirst and foremost, the core is the solution (a strong core allows you to stay on the wall way longer than a week one).
Watch how I fail and its not because of my grip or strength, but because my core gave out.
Next, footwork: you can save a lot of energy and (core strength) by properly placing your feet on the wall. By setting up properly (in alignment with the hold and where you are heading) you can be more efficient and get there with more gas in the tank! One thing I try to have people remember for overhanging climbing is "feet high and then reach high". Saves energy and allows you to push your way up with your legs rather than pull your way up with your arms.
Finally, video review. I make sure to record most attempts while on the Treadwall. The reason for this is what Peter hit on, I can do a self analysis and then correct the problem that saw during my next attempt. Then I can watch the next one and see if I did what I intended.
Side Note: 5 panel pulls on half pad crimps are a real challenge for me! Especially at the end of a lap. I am going for powerful moves with cross thru's and at the moment I am learning a great deal about how important the core is for success. VERY IMPORTANT!!