New Routing

I have been back at it up in Unaweep Canyon climbing and new routing with the precious few moments in between Rowan time.
I was able to climb some routes that I had never been on before and onsighting is always the best. It makes you remember what climbing is all about. Redoing warm-ups at the same crag and then projecting your next route is fun, but slaying routes one after another and having to figure them out and overcome fear is where it is at for me. I like doing a hard route that I have to get to know intimately on burn after burn but most of the time it is more satisfying to take on new challenges all the time instead of wiring one challenge and making it your you know what.
So today I just got back from another adventure with a heavy pack with an unknown outcome. Fortunately, I actually arrived where I was supposed to before the sun rose and only had minor issues getting to where I wanted to be.
I tore my backpack, almost rapped off the end of the rope, had to self belay to retrieve my rap line from where it was stuck all before 8 am this morning! In the end I am psyched with the new mixed climbs that I bolted and cleaned. Now I am sitting here itching to get back out there to give then their first leads and see how crazy they are to climb and protect. Until then I will play with my boy and watch him grow up!

 At the belay enjoying the perfect afternoon temps in Unaweep Canyon! Shade is where it is at.

Jesse looking at me like he did something wrong. He was racking up for our new route.

The upper piece of stone that I bolted and cleaned today. It may not look like much but there is some amazing climbing to be done.

Get outside and have an adventure.
piz : )

Thoughts on Being a Dad

SO, I have been a dad for almost three weeks now and a husband for three years now too. What have I learned? Well you have to work at being a good dad just like you have to work at being a good husband! Having Rowan in my life is really amazing. Simple things like watching him sleep or eat or wiggle or zone out has been wonderful. For me I have always liked but not loved other peoples kids. I was never taken back so much that I couldn't sleep or so in love with them them that I wanted to see all those little things. I was happy to just see the kid, hold it or play with them and be on my merry way. But now that I am a dad now and it it is my kid, I am beginning to understand. When it is yours it means something special and you want to see it experience everything good or bad and you want to be there for it no matter what. (well that is how i feel at least) Anyway, I am so happy to be a dad and so happy to be a parent with my wife Jane. She kicked butt making the baby, delivering the baby and now sharing taking care of the baby. Right now Rowan is sleeping in my lap, wiggling, squirming and doing who knows what with his hands and feet. He squeaks when he moves and likes to stick his tongue out. He lies there sleeping like he threw down at a party the night before and can't control his movements. Tiny hands scratch his face, make little fists and wipe his mouth. I can only wonder what the heck he is dreaming about right now since he can't really see more than a few inches. Maybe loud noises and bright lights? It doesn't matter really, just that I will always love this little guy and can't wait to bring him along some grand adventures.

This is right after he pooped on me for the first time. I didn't and don't even mind!

Get outside and have some fun!

piz : )

Random

 So I took my wife, mother-in-law and Rowan to the candy shop here in Grand Junction. This place makes the good stuff. Each candy was way expensive. I just looked and wished while there.

 Jane, Diana and Rowan on a hot summer day in Grand Junction.

 Inside the sweet sweet chocolate factory! They had it all and it smelled so good.

 Rowan's first sponge bath. It was a new experience to say the least.

 Rowan and our camping pillow. We are using cloth diapers and these ones are nice and fashionable.

 Kind of a fuzzy shot but he kept moving. When looking at my old baby pictures, we realized that I didn't get my curls until 3 years old. So the verdict will be out until then if he is going to end up with a red fro.

At 6.5 lbs and almost 20 inches, here sits a beast!

piz : )

New Routes in Unaweep!

Testing out the new line on top rope.

Jesse throwing down after brushing this classic 5.9.

Our day began with shenanigans when Jesse dropped some bolts down into the crack. He was prepared because he had a coat hanger in his pack which allowed him to reach down deep to recover the hardware.

Pulling out the big guns.

Mark and Ann came by to see Rowan and show off their boy Zachary. I liked him a lot because he rocked with me as we sat on the floor together. I can see our boys playing together in the future.

Get outside!

piz : )

Baby and Outdoor Retailer

Me and the boy waking up.

Page at the show working the CAMP booth for Jesse and Glen!

I was shocked to see a giant poster of me rock climbing on the outside of the Sterling Rope booth. I love my sponsors. : )

Rowan and I on his first ride around the block in our jogging stroller. Thanks mom and dad. This thing rolls nicer than my Walmart bike!

Rowan owning it. What a nice boy.
Get outside!

piz : )

Welome My Son!

After a smooth delivery, welcome to the world Rowan Robert Pizem!

Rowan sleeping on dad while he updates the internet for friends and family.

Rowan made his first clip while at the hospital!

Jane and my lovely son.

Jane and her new born son, Rowan.
I will be inside with the boy for a few. But as soon as he is ready, we will be outside having some fun, climbing and scoping new climbs.

Get outside!

Thanks to everyone, family and friends for all the support. It is good to be loved and it is good to love! We are very happy to have brought this guy into the world.

piz : )

The Outdoor Retailer 2011

I will be leaving for the OR in Salt Lake City, Utah later this week. It is a great time because I get to see lots of friends and get some face time with the amazing sponsors that have taken a chance with me as a climber, but more importantly as a person.

Arcteryx
Sterling Ropes
CAMP-USA
SCARPA-USA
WIND-XTREME
Check out and buy their gear online or at your local outdoor shops!

Rock climbing is what I love to do, but there is certainly more to it as a sponsored athlete.
It is about promoting the sport, the outdoors and the climbing community as a whole.
Being a positive role model for others and giving back when you can.
These are the things that I strive to do as a person and as a climber.

So, while I am checking out the new gear for this coming winter and talking with reps and friends from all of the world I hope that you are outside having fun.
While you will be getting it on in the mountains or at some crag, boulder, or gym I will be talking about my plans for the next year.
More desert tower first free ascents, more new sport and traditional and mixed routes in Unaweep Canyon, a sandstone splitter or two and even a new bigwall route or two.
I plan on raising my soon to be newborn child with my wonderful wife and getting outside.
Even if I don't get all those new routes done this year, next year will be one to remember!
Get outside!
piz : )

Matt Samet's New Book! Buy it NOW!!!

This book will allow you to understand the sometimes odd and crazy sounding language that us climbers speak. It has great illustrations and easy to understand explainations about those words that your family may just not get.
Leave it on your coffee table or in your college dorm room to impress your friends.
You can find it on www.amazon.com and http://www.mountaineersbooks.org
I was lucky enough to assist on a word or two on crack climbing.

Thanks and get outside!

piz : )