The Evan 5.12 (maybe 12+)

This is the first run on toprope of the short roof crack I freed this weekend. It is a first ascent, meaning that noone else had ever climbed it before. After working out the moves and removing some lichen and loose rock, I was able to climb it with out falling.

Just after completing the first free ascent! A couple of long pulls through the steep section and whamo, into the kneebar at the top. It's a great short roof problem.

If you notice, the route is just to the right of the Cynical Pinnical in the South Platte, Colorado. Click on the photo for a better view and route beta. I think the hike is about 30-40 minutes up hill to the last outcrop before the base of the main towers.

Top Jimmy, placing his first anchors at the top of the route! It was a beautiful day to be in the Platte. Thanks Top for coming out to play.

Looking up at the route, the beautiful huge dead tree at the base is a great reminder that you are there. There is a easy start to the route up a crack and then you place some gear at the horizontal break and then trust your jams as you exit to the vertical face and into the sunlight at the top. I wore tape gloves and would recommend them due to granite being slippery and rough all at the same time.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog. Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Arcturus Beta, Half Dome, Yosemite National Park

the top of arcturus

the bottom of arcturus

Arcturus Beta: gear (not sure exactly, triple set of cams to 4inches (this includes the thinner than finger sizes), up 8 finger size cams, 1 set nuts, slings and draws)

I will do my best to identify the pitches, lengths and gear for the route. It’s been a while and Mike Anderson probably has all the detailed beta written somewhere, so if mine isn’t good enough, he may be the person to ask. Since Mike and I are the only ones who have climbed the route, the ratings will be our best guess. Take them with a grain of salt.

Pitch 1 5.11+/12- (about 100 feet) start 100ft to the right of the Regular Route in a crack that is wider at the bottom and then turns into a chimney. At that point move to the right across the face (protection bolt) and into the thin left facing corner. The rock is slick, which makes the thin crux challenging. Belay at big ledge with bolts as the anchor. (I remember that this felt tough in the morning when there was moisture in the air at the base of the wall)

Pitch 2 5.9/10 (less than 100ft) From ledge head up thin crack on right, trend left into belay.

Pitch 3 5.11- (100ft) Continue up the crack right through the broken section into the wide overhanging flake and follow it up and left. When it ends, face climb up and left to a bolted anchor. There is a small stance at the belay. I really loved this pitch because of the wide stuff and the face traverse at the end. Committing climbing, but totally fun.

Pitch 4 5.11+/12- (at least 100ft) From the bolts move right up the thin crack (thin nut placement). Follow the crack up as it goes from tips to 4 inches to bolted anchor. Small stance at belay. Great fun, great gear, lots of hand jamming.

Pitch 5 5.12- (less than 100ft) From belay, head up and left through ledgey terrain past a bolt or two (I think) into thin cracks on the right. Challenging climbing and a semi-blind placement or two leads you to the huge chimney on the left. When you reach the chimney, climb in and belay at the base. (no bolt anchor) Pumpy climbing near the end of the pitch. (the crack that you were climbing on thins out and continues past the chimney. we headed into the base of the chimney at the earliest point)

Pitch 6 5.12- (less than 100ft) Head up chimney (easy) and out right through the roof at the top. Exposed and fun to a small stance in a dihedral about 20 ft above the roof. (natural anchor or one bolt)

Pitch 7 5.10+/11- (less than 100ft) Head straight up from belay in corner. Awkward at times but good gear. Small stance and a bolt or two at the belay. From the belay you’ll be looking at a bunch of junky ledges up and to your left. You will also be under the big chimney on the Regular Route.

Pitch 8 5.easy PG (200ft+) Traverse up and left on the broken ledges and be aware of loose blocks bad gear and easy climbing. You are heading to the bolts at the base of the blankest section of the wall. (there is a bolt ladder there which takes you to where you want to go) We climbed the 5.10 (4 pitch variation) to the left, which comes back to the top of the bolt ladder and a big long ledge where you could sleep. There is a 1 or 2 pitch free variation just to the left of the bolt ladder that was freed at about 5.12+ but it wasn’t that fun or easy either. If you are not going to free the route, then take the bolt ladder on the Regular Route to the big ledge. This is where Arcturus and the Regular Route cross paths. The bolt ladder should be short and sweet (maybe about 30 feet)

Pitch 9 5.13 (less than 100ft) This is where the climbing starts to really get good. Begin on the pins in the dihedral to the left of the big chimney. Climb the thin crack dihedral past the last pins and up the arête and corner to a thin belay stance. Cool, thin and balancy moves take you past some bolts to the bolted belay.

Pitch 10 5.12- (100ft) Continue up the long dihedral that is thin fingers the whole way to an anchor in the corner. Not the most comfortable belay anchor. (bolts I think)

Pitch 11 5.12- (100ft) Continue up dihedral past a pin and through the roof on the left side. Some cool stemming and exciting moves through the roof take you to a belay in a little cave off to the left. (bolts and cams I think)

Pitch 12 5.12 (100ft) From small alcove, head up through corner systems. This is thin and balancy, with a blind placement of a number one cam on the left side. There are some pins and bolts on this pitch and it feels pretty committing to lead. Once you reach the bolts, no worries, climb up the rail of granite and up past the Robbins Rod (a large finger of granite sticking out from the wall.) Stand on the rod and gain some more crack to the belay above.

Pitch 13 5.11 (less than 100ft) From anchor head left up left leaning overhanging hand crack. Really fun and pumpy. At top, move right into the corner and belay.

Pitch 14 5.8 (less than 100ft) Easy chimney to semi hanging belay. One bolt is on the face so you don’t have to carry the big gear with you. Belay at bolts.

Pitch 15 5.13+ (100ft) Head up the corner and out the roof to the left. Remove any gear in the roof (just above the anchor) because a fall(or hanging) on the pitch will push it into the crack to never be retrieved. Climb past an old pin (its good I fell on it a lot) to the bolts ahead. Challenging and thoughtful lie backing and smearing. This is the lead I broke my back on. Two bolt anchor. Could be a difficult one to lead without a stick clip if you plan on aiding. The bolts are far apart, since there are no holds to clip from.

Pitch 16 5.12- (less than 100ft) Climb up from the anchor past the bolts into the dihedral, mantle and head up the best lie back ever! It’s hero time and so fun! Stop at bolted anchor.

Pitch 17 5.12+ (100ft) Head out right from the anchor (yes where there is not a crack) onto the face and slab up until you find a jug and places to put cams. Continue up the face till you reach a bolted traverse and a bolted anchor. (slab crux)

Pitch 18 5.12+/13- (less than 100ft) Continue right on a sloping ramp and straight up on the bolts. A long move to a ledge will get you to the slab moves and the anchor above. (Another slabby crux)

Pitch 19/20 5.10max (less than 200ft) Heading up and left, follow the path of least resistance to the summit (combine with the last pitch or two of the Regular Route.

Congrads you made it. Feel free to let me know if the beta is good.

Best places to sleep (pitch 8 or 9)
Belays are generally thin on most upper pitches a belay seat could be really nice!

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Climbing/Training Tips

So here are two things to keep in mind while thinking about training.

If you are interested in training or at least applying the logic of training to your climbing schedule, remember this:

1. You can train grip, strength, power, crimps, face, overhangs, roofs, pockets and movements in variety of ways, as long as you are doing it repeatedly you will get better. This is just like going climbing or doing certain exercises once or twice a week. Time will improve your weaknesses (if you train them) but it will be slow.
2. Or you can get specific and apply a regime to your training and make it a cycle. This requires dedication and a major commitment to giving up the time to follow thru with your plan. You will reap greater rewards (most likely faster too), but at a greater cost of giving up the "other" stuff in your life.

Remember this though, there isn't a shortcut to improvement. Everything takes time, you get what you put into your workout and no more.

Always feel free to send me questions in the comments section and I will do my best to answer them asap. Since I do not know everything about training, I will always consult those who do or who are more knowledgable about the subject. But I will always share what I do know or what personal expereince has told me.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Caving with My Students

The ice "caves" are actually pikes peak granite boulders that have filled in a valley outside of Monument, Colorado.

The normally rough and sharp boulders are actually water polished and smooth. In the winter any water passing through turns into ice as does the stream that flows at the bottom.

You never know whether the passage will be wide open or very tight and what kind of icey surprises will be around the next corner.

Here are the motivated and "cool" students and staff who joined me on the caving experience!

This is what it looks like from the top of the snow coverered boulders. Look carefully and you may find an entrance into the hidden world below.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Letter to Recognize (for lack of a better title)

This was sent to me from the high ups at Climbing Magazine and was from a happy subscriber:

To: letters@climbing.com
Subject: No. 282 - sand & sweat
Sent: Jan 21, 2010 7:16 PM

Yo, First off, Issue No. 282 is great as always. Or, at least it was until I finished the "Gallery: Shark Bitten" section. Now the pages are crinkly and semi-transparent from the sweat that poured from my palms while reading it. Seriously, I've never been so nervous reading photo captions in my life. Excellent work to all the climbers and serious props to Burr for the fantastic, sweat-inducing shots.

First off, thanks to A-Burr, who shot the beautiful images and next thanks to Climbing Magazine for publishing them and lastly, thanks to Mike and Pete who signed up for the adventure!
Glad that we all could somehow inspire and make you sweat, cause beleive me I was not wanting to fall and have to relead that pitch, it was scary!!

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

The Puzzle is Finally Done!

Thanks Jane for finding the home for the final peices.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Climbing Classes and Systems Boards

Jane crossing a cold stream in Northeastern Ohio over winter break.

Last night I ran a class that showed climbers how to use and implement a systems board training program into their climbing routine. The class focused on where to begin, the purpose of the board, the types of exercises performed and how often to use it. I was surprised to see how many climbers (or at least folks who use the gym) don't know how to use the equipment that they are paying for the service of using.


It makes me wonder how many services that are provided to us that we pay for and don't actually take advantage of. I am sure that there are many services in my life that I overlook or don't use at all.


So why am I discussing this on my blog, well when you are buying clothing, gear or even planning a trip, I hope that you are sure to check out and use everything that you are offered. Sometimes these services make your life a whole lot more enjoyable and successful. The Systems Board is one piece of equipment that is probably at your local gym that you can really be improving your overall climbing with and its at no additional charge.

Some ways that a Systems Board will help your climbing with proper training:
core tension, lock off strength, target practice for hitting/grabbing holds, contact strength, pockets, mono's, multi-finger pockets, underclings, side pulls, gastons, lie-backing, jugs, slopers, pinches, backsteps, high steps, long moves, crunched up moves, sideways reaches, bumps to and from any type of holds, (if the board is an adjustable angle board) overhanging climbing techniques... The list goes on and will truly benifit you as a rock climber.





I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Indian Creek In January

Mike and I at the crag. T-shirts while climbing in the 22 degree temps and jackets at the belay! We spent the day at the Cat Wall nearly all alone.

Sometimes the clouds came and I had to wear my favorite Arcteryx top while climbing. It was a real bummer... NOT! Mike just bought some new cams and it was really nice having cams that work and actually trigger in the desert.

Mike on the King Cat (I think). It is a lie back to hands to fists to a hand crack through the roof. Great fun with some killer rests! A real classic at the Creek.

Waking up after sleeping out at the creek. Wasn't too cold at night, especially after making pasta and listening to playoff football on the radio. Sitting out under the stars in my warm Arcteryx clothes is easy cause they are so warm and cozy.

From I-70 it didn't look good on the way to the Creek. But as usual it was perfect when we got there.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

South Platte Rock Climbing

I was out climbing on the granite of the South Platte in Colorado and found a roof crack that looks more like a butt crack. I didn't get a chance to try it on this winter afternoon because of the days plans but I will be back for the first ascent!

Ben underneath the three quarter inch right angling crack that we were able to climb last weekend. My friend Jason shared the route with us and I was able to figure out the crux moves and climb it without falling. We called it the Icicle because while on the climb, Ben threw an icicle from the route at Jason and hit him square in the shoulder from 40 feet away. Good times. It is just another reminder that there are many first ascents to be opened up in the Platte. This new climb goes at about 5.10+/5.11-.

Ben cleaning the gear off the Bad Juju roof. Jason invited me to check it out this weekend. Its a great short climb with perfect hand jams out a roof. You can see that it climbs pretty steep and really throws a great pump at your forearms.

Ben beginning the Bad Juju roof in the South Platte. After the 40 minute uphill approach this short route will make you work for the anchors.

Great stone and great gear and wonderful views make it worth the hike and drive.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Back in Action

Jane and I went bouldering at the SPOT bouldering gym in Boulder, Colorado. The weather was nice outside but, there is nothing like a good training session on plastic and lots of new problems to figure out and climb.

What is this you might ask? I finally had a chance to make some of my mothers home-made pasta sauce here in Colorado. Although I lacked a few special ingredients and after browning this Italian sausage it turned out great. I think the handrolled meatballs were the hit of the meal! Thanks MOM.

Jane and her brother Clay just days before he was stationed in Japan in the United States NAVY. Thanks Clay for taking care of America. We all went bowling where the balls were flying off the bumpers a few too many times.

Jane painting one of the wooden pieces I made for the house. It is a step stool for the kitchen because everything seems out of reach. Anyway it is beautiful now that it had some paint splashed on it. Plus the color makes it easy to see, I haven't kicked it once with its bright yellow paint job. Thanks Jane : )

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

More Mexico Photos and Information

The middle feature has a 1500 ft route called El Sendero Luminoso a 15 pitch 5.12. We didn't get a chance to try the bearutiful climb due to some rain during our trip. Some day I will get back to the park to give it a try.

Market day in Hidalgo. They sell fresh meat, veggies, fruits. You can buy clothes, electronics/CD's (old), art, house supplies, tools... you get the picture! It only takes about 10-15 minutes to walk from your camping area to the market. (market days are tuesdays and fridays) It's a great place to try some food, try speaking the language and to meet some of the locals, they are sooo kind!

Mike and my bunk beds. If we weren't climbing or eating than mike was on the internet doing work from the campground. The shower was hot, the water is safe to drink and the beds are comfy!

Mike following me up another beautiful multipitch route in the Potrero.

Mike and I heading up Space Boyz early in the morning. We got special permission from the local government to climb/inspect the wall for rockfall damage because I am trained as a Geological Engineer. Unfortunately, there is a ton of loose stuff above a couple routes on this wall. If reopened you should wear your helmets and be aware of massive rockfall possibilities.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com