January 31, 2010

The Evan 5.12 (maybe 12+)

This is the first run on toprope of the short roof crack I freed this weekend. It is a first ascent, meaning that noone else had ever climbed it before. After working out the moves and removing some lichen and loose rock, I was able to climb it with out falling.
Just after completing the first free ascent! A couple of long pulls through the steep section and whamo, into the kneebar at the top. It's a great short roof problem.
If you notice, the route is just to the right of the Cynical Pinnical in the South Platte, Colorado. Click on the photo for a better view and route beta. I think the hike is about 30-40 minutes up hill to the last outcrop before the base of the main towers.
Top Jimmy, placing his first anchors at the top of the route! It was a beautiful day to be in the Platte. Thanks Top for coming out to play.
Looking up at the route, the beautiful huge dead tree at the base is a great reminder that you are there. There is a easy start to the route up a crack and then you place some gear at the horizontal break and then trust your jams as you exit to the vertical face and into the sunlight at the top. I wore tape gloves and would recommend them due to granite being slippery and rough all at the same time.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog. Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

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