September 12, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: One Route Requires Lots of Techniques!

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

video

The wall is at 50 degrees overhanging. Not so much by choice but by necessity.
This route was set with the intent of creating a variety of reaches and side pulls.
The grips consist of in cut crimp and large jugs. All holds are placed to be used as side pulls and sometimes they are very far apart.

Procedure
  1. I want you to watch the video where Ben climbs the route.
  2. What do you notice Ben doing in order to successfully climb the route without falling.
  3. Ask yourself whether or not you have those skills.
What I want you to remember is that we are developing our skills by watching others who do things well and then trying to incorporate those skills into our own climbing.

Things that I noticed:
  • If Ben missed the perfect grip, he resets on the hold and stays tight to the wall (core)
  • When he makes those long reaches, he is sure to not only back step the same side of his side that he is reaching but also moving with velocity rather than just locking off.
  • Sometimes a back step is not the right body position for the move, so he chooses to use a flag (where you hang one leg behind you and use it for balance and sometimes even momentum).
  • Sometimes Ben needs to crimp and sometimes he needs to open hand. The hold and hand strength determine what grip position will work best for you. The overall goal is to always use the least amount of strength on every hold of a route. Being able to turn in off and on is one of the best skills that you can have as a climber whether you are bouldering or climbing routes.
  • Dead pointing is when you almost lunge to a hold and hit it perfectly. Ben chooses to use that technique while completing this route. It requires confidence, grip strength, core tension and a lot of practice.
  • Cutting your feet. Sometimes the most efficient movement on an overhang is to cut your feet. Watch Ben as he does this to regain his position.
  • Core tension. If you have not noticed from this blog, core tension is what it is all about. YOU MUST have control of your body at all times in order to put your self in the best position for success on routes.
  • Patience. Ben waits till the time is right to make his moves. He aligns his body, sets his feet and finds the right head space in order to execute the move properly. These are all skills required for sending!
  • Compression is huge for side pulling and is directly related to core tension!
What else did I miss?

2 comments:

  1. Rob, I'd add Ben's use of straight arm hangs while waiting to your Patience bullet.

    One other thing he's doing to deal with the angle is climbing with high feet(slightly scrunched), so he doesn't become over extended.

    While it might be difficult to concoct, could post a video of the same route climbed with poor technique for contrast?

    PLJ



    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Great idea Peter, I think I will do that! Good comments.

      Delete