December 7, 2012

Training with Piz: Modified Peter Pans

video
We call this a modified Peter Pan. (named by the one and only coach Dave Wahl, who taught me what I share with you).

There are many versions that can be created with a systems board and because our systems board is fully adjustable(from 45-90 degrees), we can develop thousands of versions of the movement.

History: The movement is based on doing repetitions on the pinches. Once you are good at a more vertical angle, you can move onto a steeper one and repeat for a set time or number of reps.
We are working grip strength, core, footwork, compression, power endurance and dynamic movement.

Since I am attempting to simulate the movements of a certain route, This configuration of moves came to mind and you are witnessing someone attempting it in the video. We are at 60 degrees overhanging, because I want to first develop the movement and then amp it up into the most difficult version of the movement.

Start at 60 degrees overhung (we will eventually do this at 45 degrees) and cut your feet every time that you match hands on a new hold.
Here we begin on the side pulls, move to the small crimps (cut feet) then back down to the side pulls (cut feet) then up to the pinches (cut feet) and back down to the side pulls (cut feet)
repeat for a time or certain number of reps.

What is great about this is that you can simulate many moves that you may have problems with for all types of climbing.

Now quit training and get outside and have an adventure.

piz : )

2 comments:

  1. Excellent idea and workout.

    First time visitor to your blog. If you ever get the chance, add some tags/labels to you post. Make post about certain subject easier to find.

    A Middle School Math Teacher who loves to climb and establish new routes. Eman

    ReplyDelete
  2. Sorry about the tag/labels, not sure how to do that. I will continue to title them training with piz. Good to hear from you Eman. Thanks for visiting!

    ReplyDelete