Rock Climbing with Rob Pizem: treadwall training with rob pizem

Showing posts with label treadwall training with rob pizem. Show all posts

August 29, 2014

Grand Valley Climbing: Short Walking Videos

August 26, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz: Pink Single and Double

Watch the two videos.
Look for the following:

my body position

my twisting to reach holds

my grip

my foot work (toe placement)

my proximaty to the wall

when I get a shake

my breathing (if possible)

Then try to apply the succefull movements to your climbing!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHxeC3iqI8A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i5LDDN_gc8

August 14, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz (green triple)

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com

The green holds were sent to me in a package from Treadwall. They were grouped together by color of course and by shape. They are meant to be useful for warming up and for working powerful long moves. This route is all about longer moves and using good technique. I twist to reach the holds rather than staying straight on in my movements. Occasionally, I will reach straight on and that is more of a power move.

Why do I go for three in a row. I want to watch how I respond to fatigue (while watching my technique). It will help me focus on proper form when I am on a real climb outside!

Enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=124A8yS1m_I

Dolomite Part 2

The always beautiful northern Italy.

Well manicured lands.

BOOM!

The glacier on the backside of the Marmolada.

We walked and ran and slid our way down the mountain after climbing 2000' of perfect limestone! Then we hitchhiked back to the car. Good times.

The hike up to the refugio. It took about 45 minutes from where we parked in the woods below to get to the hut where we got beta. rested and ate before the climb.

Chris and I on the hike.

The right side of the photo is the Marmolada. Tons of routes, tons of climbing, tons of run.

A photo of the routes in the refugio. We figured it would help us on while on route.

The hut where we slept the night before the climb. Great food and a super place to meet random travelers! Don't forget to watch the goats play in the hills!

April 17, 2014

Treadwalling

February 24, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz: When and When Not to Drop Knee Video

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wWLjG-0-jI

Watch this video to learn how to drop knee.

Dropknee: when you reach up with a hand and rotate on the toe of that same foot into the wall.
Purpose: It will keep you closer to the wall (your hips) and allow you to reach further up the wall, and it will be a more efficient use of your energy.

Straight on Reach: this is when you do not drop knee and keep your hips square to the the wall (meaning that they are not twisted from one side or to another)
Purpose: Sometimes its tough to drop knee due to the location of the feet and it makes more sense to use a little bit of power to pull straight on.

I use both as I complete this problem.
Think about how you can switch and use the appropriate one while you are on your climbs!

January 28, 2014

Training with Piz: Fingerwalking

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

Fingerwalking

Shuffling on various sizes of crimps can be good. Start on a big piece of wood like a 2x4 and move down to smaller and smaller crimps. Ideally your feet will be off the ground, but you can have one foot on to develop the skill.
Every time that you move is with a small kip of the hips (pop up).
Be sure to use open hands and no thumbs!!

Treadwall Training with Piz: What am I doing Wrong (Treadwall Videos)?

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

Lets just try to identify all the ways in which I am failing, there are many...

Here are two videos of me trying my new problems. Each one has long reaches and cross throughs on 1 pad size crimps. (my weakness)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGcTjbvb4eM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZs_Pg75gJs

Have fun and let me know where I am going wrong and what I could do to be more efficient and use better technique!

November 12, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: More Crimping and Fingerboarding

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com
www.camp-usa.com
www.scarpa.com
www.sterlingrope.com
www.americanalpineclub.org
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lki_idpxmfI&feature=youtu.be

This short video demonstrates how you can work a specific skill. Here I just crimp for 22ft at about 55 degrees overhanging. I have a couple crimp routes on my wall and this is a great way to develop your crimping and crimping strength.

I begin by crimping and not twisting to reach, but as I get tired and my fingers begin to give out I start twisting in order to be more efficient.

Separate the holds just one more panel and it begins to work lock off reaches. Skip one more panel and every move is a lock off and a reach and a crimp. You get the picture. The Treadwall is such a powerful tool.

You must forget that people say that it is a great way to train endurance. The fact is that if you only think that the Treadwall is good for endurance then you better find a coach or someone more knowledgeable than you because you are not seeing 99% of what this tool has to offer.

The other thing that I recently added to my Treadwall is a fingerboard. Thanks to Jesse Z for lending me his fingerboard, I can now work on a few other things. Stay tuned for some of the next level ideas and programs that I have come up with.

October 18, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: The Triple

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGzdjJX-MM0&feature=youtu.be

Enjoy my video effort and then the explanation of my training plan in the video and the write up on my Youtube site!

piz : )

September 12, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: One Route Requires Lots of Techniques!

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

The wall is at 50 degrees overhanging. Not so much by choice but by necessity.
This route was set with the intent of creating a variety of reaches and side pulls.
The grips consist of in cut crimp and large jugs. All holds are placed to be used as side pulls and sometimes they are very far apart.

Procedure

I want you to watch the video where Ben climbs the route.
What do you notice Ben doing in order to successfully climb the route without falling.
Ask yourself whether or not you have those skills.

What I want you to remember is that we are developing our skills by watching others who do things well and then trying to incorporate those skills into our own climbing.

Things that I noticed:

If Ben missed the perfect grip, he resets on the hold and stays tight to the wall (core)
When he makes those long reaches, he is sure to not only back step the same side of his side that he is reaching but also moving with velocity rather than just locking off.
Sometimes a back step is not the right body position for the move, so he chooses to use a flag (where you hang one leg behind you and use it for balance and sometimes even momentum).
Sometimes Ben needs to crimp and sometimes he needs to open hand. The hold and hand strength determine what grip position will work best for you. The overall goal is to always use the least amount of strength on every hold of a route. Being able to turn in off and on is one of the best skills that you can have as a climber whether you are bouldering or climbing routes.
Dead pointing is when you almost lunge to a hold and hit it perfectly. Ben chooses to use that technique while completing this route. It requires confidence, grip strength, core tension and a lot of practice.
Cutting your feet. Sometimes the most efficient movement on an overhang is to cut your feet. Watch Ben as he does this to regain his position.
Core tension. If you have not noticed from this blog, core tension is what it is all about. YOU MUST have control of your body at all times in order to put your self in the best position for success on routes.
Patience. Ben waits till the time is right to make his moves. He aligns his body, sets his feet and finds the right head space in order to execute the move properly. These are all skills required for sending!
Compression is huge for side pulling and is directly related to core tension!

What else did I miss?

August 29, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: First Timer on My Wall

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

This is a short video of a first timer on my Treadwall.

My wall is set at a steeper angle than most people climb at regularly, which makes even the "easiest problems" challenging. I think that the wall is right around 50 degrees overhanging which makes the best holds seem small when you have to do a lock off, reach, climb sideways or pretty much do anything.

Grip strength is something that may not come into play on slabs and even vertical routes, but is a game changer on overhanging terrain. Moves become impossible when you can not even hold on. How often do you work your grip strength?

The drop knee is an essential skill to master when climbing overhanging terrain. If you choose to not use them, you will need more power and strength to do simple moves and way more when doing challenging moves. Additionally, you will pump out sooner due to being less efficient with your moves.

Also, making reaches/pulls off holds is more difficult due to the fact that you are overhanging. You must learn to use your feet more efficiently along with your core. I will discuss the specifics in later videos and posts, but I want you to start thinking about what it really takes to move efficiently on your wall whether it is more vertical or more steep.

Let me know what you think this climber needs to do to improve.

August 13, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: Warming Up

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtrFalGV9Uo

Check out the next video about how to properly warm up before a session on the wall!

June 9, 2013

It's Treadwall Time!

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

The guts of a treadwall. (the breaking system)

Laying it out with Garnet.

Axel that connects the two chains that run the wall.

Almost done.

Installing the panels to the steel that connects the tread.

The last panel.

After you build it, you give Garnet dinner, a place to crash and his first desert tower summit at sunset!

Stay tuned as I share what I learn about using and training with the treadwall. Thanks Brewers Ledge for bringing out the Kore Model to me and my family here in Grand Junction, Colorado!!!