Rock Climbing with Rob Pizem: rob pizem rock climbing

Showing posts with label rob pizem rock climbing. Show all posts

August 12, 2014

Planning to Send this Fall? How will you do that?

Pick an objective. That can be a climb or boulder problem, short or long, steep or vertical. If you don't have something to train for it is difficult to assess your weakness and then train with intent.
Be realistic but aim high. Don't just pick something that you are already close to accomplishing, choose something that is out of your comfort zone. By addressing all those areas that are difficult for you, you will become a better climber.
Assess how much time that you have to give to the training. You need to meet your lifes obligations so plan your training accordingly.
Identify training days and fun days (at the crag or gym). You can't make every single day a training day, you have to build in the fun and vice versa, you can't expect to progress if you just go and screw off all day in an undirected manner.
Find a training partner with a similar schedule or training plan. That way you have someone to psyche you up if you are slacking on a day or two. A partner allows you to climb routes too!
Build in rest time! Without rest you don't recover.
Plan Plan Plan and then follow through! That means don't spend your time climbing slab if you want to get better at overhangs! Choose your climbs and boulders to meet your needs. That might take you out of your routine but that is good, you need to step out to step up.
Get a trainer or a training book. There are many out there that are very good at helping people progress. We are never too good to improve! Be open to constructive criticism. Even Ondra needs a coach!
Make it fun! If you aren't smiling at the end of the day, then your taking it to serious. It's climbing folks, we are not saving the world or solving world problems. : )

Dolomite Trip! (June 2014)

The trip began after two flights, a long layover and some night time driving through northern Italy.
We arrived in Arco, Italy and pulled into the only open campground next to the old down town. Italian campgrounds are great, small stores with all the staples that you need, swimming pools, showers and full support for your climbing, biking or vacationing enjoyment. We slept late trying to get used to the time change and recover from the travel and got some climbs in at the local popular wall called Massone. There are climbs from 5.6 to 5.15 and lots of them. The limestone is streaked and beautiful. It faces the east/south so the sun shines on it in the morning and leaves the best conditions to the afternoon in the summer. Winter however, your best time is the morning.
The rock is polished but that is what happens to limestone. It is great fun no matter what!

A route topo at the parking area of the wall.

We were in Italy to climb in the Dolomites and Arco is just a few hours from Milan and a great place to climb with literally thousands of climbs to choose from. The routes are 50-2500ft, most of which are sport climbs (even the long ones). Because our destination was the big walls up north we headed out that afternoon towards the Marmolada (at 2500ft tall mountain with tons of amazing climbs on them where you walk off on the glacier after finishing. Here Chris checks out a mountain lake with a small castle overlooking it. Yeah Italy is that good!

We quickly arrived in the heart of the Dolomites and tried to find out where the heck we were with respect to our dated guidebooks. Walls like this are commonplace. All of which have HUGE adventure climbs on them that are just a short approach from the car.

We stopped for the night in another great campground and enjoyed a meal in town during the world cup. Pizza and the Dolomites make me a happy camper : )

There is not any legal free camping in the Dolomites. It is a national park but the areas have been preserved for everyone to enjoy. There are cabins and hotels and campgrounds everywhere that can satisfy your need to sleep outside.

To be continued...

April 24, 2014

2 More Slide Shows!!

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com

  I have two great shows coming up.

The first one is FREE and at the Colorado Mesa University
When:       April 30 7ish (i think)
Where:      CMU campus (student center upstairs) That is in Grand Junction folks!
What:        Tehipite Dome First Ascenting
Why:         Wednesday Night Wandering Series
Swag:         Yes, Arcteryx, CAMP, SCARPA

The next on is on May 6th

Who:         The Western Slope Medical Society.
What:         Climbing Adventures and Injuries!
Where:       Some swank place that you need to buy tickets too!

If you are a doctor and want to join in the fun, come on down for the dinner. I promise that I will add some flavor to your dinner!

February 13, 2014

Training with Piz: Barbies

The Barbie is the NEW BURPEE

Just add a weighted bar to the mix and get after it.
What a great full body workout.
It focuses on your core, power in the legs with the jump,
oppositional muscles in your arms with the pushup,
cardio from the speed.

It's time to get down!

February 11, 2014

Dallas Weekend Wrap Up

I like to take photos of the planes for my son. This one is in Denver International in concourse B.

Who doesn't want cupcakes while on the road? mmm red velvet

Gary, he is in charge of the Texas Mountaineers Dallas chapter. Great guy, been climbing forever and really in touch with the climbing community. He wants people to create and be a part of a strong climbing community that keeps folks climbing for a long time!

A few of the clinic takers getting ready for a big trip to Queen Creek! Have fun fellas!

Bathroom decor at the gym!

Lots of peeps getting ready for my two slide shows on Sat night!! We had a pot luck too and it was great to meet and talk with everyone.

We were reminded how our efforts with the Access Fund and our local climbing areas help keep them open. Don't be afraid or think it is a waste to join up and participate in events like trail building or meetings with land owners or land regulators! It all helps and areas only stay open because of dedicated people like you!

February 4, 2014

Snow Day with the Kids!

January 9, 2014

Training with Piz: Big Moves

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

So, if you are not yet able to work on the campus board due to the holds being too small or a hand/finger injury, you can still work on making powerful moves and developing your power/explosiveness and contact strength.

Get on the adjustable systems board or just a steep overhanging bouldering zone and choose two good holds and feet to start from.
Make an explosive (fast) move up to the highest hold that you can reach.
Try to hold on.
Tips for sticking that move:

Lock off with the low hand (that will keep you in tighter to the wall).
Grip like mad with the high hand, hold on like you are about to fall off a building top!
Engage your core to prevent sagging. Once you sag, you are off the hold and wall.
Push hard with your feet,by not doing this it is difficult to engage your core.
Visualize sticking the hold and how you will look doing it. That way you just have to make it look like it should and you will be in the proper body position.
No feet cutting. Once they are off, you are off.

Be sure to rest between attempts and to rest before switching lead hands.
When you first start try to stick a good hold, no crimps at the start unless you consider yourself an advanced level climber.

Have fun!!

December 3, 2013

First Snow Fall of the Season

The back yard, normally you are looking into Colorado National Monument and beautiful sandstone cliffs!

Rowan getting ready to rumble. Jane was thoughtful and taught him how to throw snowballs at me : )

Snowman time!

The proper use of Menagerie Climbing holds.

Enjoying our hard work.

Jane and Orson came out to play too!

Rowan loves to shovel anything and I mean anything!

Our snowman wanted to eat Orson!

An attempt at snow angels.

The deuce.

November 23, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: The Big One

November 13, 2013

Training with Piz: Rock Climbing Helmets

Andrew Burr Photo

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com
www.camp-usa.com
www.scarpa.com
www.sterlingrope.com
www.americanalpineclub.org
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com

http://camp-usa.com/products/helmets/armour-gray-190A.asp

http://camp-usa.com/products/helmets/speed-green-239.asp

This could be considered the same old rant that you have heard in the past, but for whatever reason I am here to write it one more time!

Wear your helmets folks!

The combination of these points:

my high schools crisis team meeting this morning telling the staff about crazy gunman in schools
and the fact that a friend who climbs more than all of us just having a bad climbing accident a day or two ago (still in the hospital)
and that while I was just trying my head point project and having all the gear blow during fall

makes me want to remind everyone that helmets save your life. I have pictures and links to the ones that I wear regularly.

It's simple, wear them and be safer. Choose not to wear them and be a dope.

Accidents are called that for a reason, because you didn't plan on it even thought that you took all the precautions that you needed to.

October 29, 2013

Busy Weekend

Contact Piz for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then...

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com                        Arcteryx
www.camp-usa.com                     CAMP
www.scarpa.com                          SCARPA
www.sterlingrope.com                Sterling
www.americanalpineclub.org      AAC
www.brewersledge.com               Treadwall
www.windx-treme.com                Windxtreme