Rock Climbing with Rob Pizem: rob pizem training

Showing posts with label rob pizem training. Show all posts

August 12, 2014

Can't Find the Time!

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com

Since I left for Italy this summer, I have been on a whirlwind of trips, work, family adventures and climbs!
My two children keep me busy until the point of passing out these days and getting to my blog which has been easy in the past has not been as easy.

I finally started training again and am three weeks into circuits and my Treadwall program.
What does that look like in my life?
It started out at 8pm every night except friday, but now has settled into two a days.
I begin at 5am and circuit and then at 8pm that night I Treadwall.
That allows me to have more freedom the other nights of the week and to get the volume and fatigue level that I am striving for in addition to the amount of rest that I need to perform and progress.

Combine that with my kids are still not sleeping through the night I am often (mostly) sleep deprived.

So my point is that you can figure out how to fit it in if you are motivated. See the next post to read my thoughts about Motivation.

piz : )

February 21, 2014

Summit Grapevine (Dallas,Tx) Gym Review

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com

So this is a great smaller gym with more top roping and leading than bouldering.
The routes that I climbed were well set and the grades seemed right on par with other gyms.
I really liked how the setters used the features in addition to the smooth paint vs textured features.
This made it challenging to grab them and to stand on them if it was the slick feature.

With respect to training there was a speed wall (where the kids excel at and often win national competitions. I had never seen one, it is set with just a few holds and the kids figure out how to move quickly up through the odd shaped holds.
Personally, I would have set real routes on it because it was just slightly overhung and very wide. Perfect to set any kind of route on.
The training area is a second thought. They have finger boards poorly placed in a corner, they have a weight bench with just a few weights, they have a pull up bar that is free standing that is not attached to the floor so it can fall over if you were to rock it to one side.

In all I like the gym but the training area is lackluster. No systems board, no campus board, no real equipment, no space and no instruction for what they do have.

The bouldering area was small as you can see below. Get a lot of people in there and you will be falling on top of each other. It had the right amount of angles and plenty of holds to make up your own problems if you wanted.

There was an arch in the lead area that was quite fun and again well set.

Slick feature

Textured feature

Classroom/yoga/party room

February 13, 2014

Training with Piz: Barbies

The Barbie is the NEW BURPEE

Just add a weighted bar to the mix and get after it.
What a great full body workout.
It focuses on your core, power in the legs with the jump,
oppositional muscles in your arms with the pushup,
cardio from the speed.

It's time to get down!

February 6, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz: Power Endurance Training and Training your Eyes for Observing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnpQ8xe8Vu4&feature=youtu.be

There are a few ways in which you can train to get power endurance.
You can do pyramids or 4x4's while bouldering in the gym or you can have more fun (in my perspective) and use a Treadwall.

I can set a powerful problem on the Treadwall and then climb it an an appropriate pace.
Each move must be challenging/powerful.
Each move must require core tension.
Moves can be dynamic.
Holds can be good or bad.
Holds should work on your weaknesses.
You can incorporate side pulls, cross thru's, under clings, compression moves, matches etc.
No rest holds or positions should be set.

Once I can do the problem, I see how many laps that I can do without falling off in a row.
This video shows that I am just beginning to build my power-endurance since I fall off just a few moves from the start.
Once I can get 2-3 laps in a row, then I will add a shake on the fingerboard in between (typically for 1-2 minutes) between each lap. The hope would be that I would recover, but the reality is that I get more pumped because I am on tiny holds.
When I know that I am in good power endurance shape I can do hard problems in a row with the 1 minute shake on bad holds. I typically will shoot to be able to do 3 laps in a row with that method. (that is about a 70 ft route)

Get out there and have some fun being fit!

piz : )

January 14, 2014

Training with Piz: Compression Training

Compression is required on all kinds of climbing routes. I would say there are more bouldering compression problems out there than routes, but they exist. Some climbers can call themselves compression climbers and they normally get crushed on all other kinds of routes. So it is in essence a specialty skill, but one that should not be over looked. Font in France has tons of compression problems

To Train:

1 Find a set of holds and a wall if you are lucky enough that is overhung where two good open holds can be squeezed together at your maximum reach. Try to set the feet so that they are at a similar max

2 Pull on the wall and hold tight for a given time.

A good progression of this exercise is to move from jugs, to open hand with thumbs and without thumbs and finally to crimps.

If you have an adjustable wall, which more and more gyms are investing in. You just have to kick back the angle to increase the difficulty!

Get out there and train!

January 9, 2014

Training with Piz: Big Moves

Lock off with the low hand (that will keep you in tighter to the wall).
Grip like mad with the high hand, hold on like you are about to fall off a building top!
Engage your core to prevent sagging. Once you sag, you are off the hold and wall.
Push hard with your feet,by not doing this it is difficult to engage your core.
Visualize sticking the hold and how you will look doing it. That way you just have to make it look like it should and you will be in the proper body position.
No feet cutting. Once they are off, you are off.

Be sure to rest between attempts and to rest before switching lead hands.
When you first start try to stick a good hold, no crimps at the start unless you consider yourself an advanced level climber.

Have fun!!

Thoughts on the New Earthtreks Gym

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

So, I only had a few minutes at the gym, but I immediately loved it. I like the walls and the shapes and the texture, I like the floors and the open space and the route setting. I like the bouldering. The bathrooms were clean and there was tons of open space. It is not a cramped gym, which is nice.
I like the systems boards but did not think that they were set as they could be. Also the fingerboard area seemed like it was an after thought. The cardio zone with weights was sweet and would work nicely for individuals, but not as nice for groups of people at once.
Overall this is a rad place that I would have a membership at if I lived on the front range. Or else I would be working there!

They have balls. Lots of them. I use the yoga balls regularly at my local gym for all kinds of core work and strength training. Don't be afraid to ask someone at the gym to find out how to use any equipment.

There is plenty of cardio equipment. All new and top of the line. You can use this stuff and watch folks climbing in the main area. Not a bad idea. Also there is a ton of room between the equipment and the workout area so that people are not stepping on each other. If you notice there are rings and slings hanging from the ceiling. another nice feature that keeps them off the floor and out of the way while in the workout area. No lost slings or Atomic balls at this gym

You want power? Well, check out the campus zone. It is wide open and ready to be used by all who dare.

The place is beautiful, clean and has routes for everyone that are over 40ft tall

Can't lead yet, no problem. There are tons of top ropes. Also the routes are set by color of the holds. No more tape to have to try to see. That is way nicer than the old way.

Climber to show scale on the wall.

More training on the adjustable systems boards.

January 7, 2014

Training with Piz: Two Move Finger Board Repeater Pops

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

Choose two different but good holds that you can move back and forth on.
Start hanging on one pair of holds and then without touching the wall or floor "pop" or move to the next one. Go back and forth between these holds.

It is a great finger strength routine, great for the core, your kip motion for campusing and power endurance. If there is a wall and you get tired place one foot on and if there isn't, then move to bigger holds!

A Winter Day in Ouray

On the last day of the semester I left this little guy at home and took my students to Ouray for a day of ice climbing and cross country skiing!

We had the gear!

The ice was fat!

The kids did great!

They thought it was tough!

They tackled a couple ice lines.

After a quick lunch we went and got a short ski in near the ice park.

The day was perfect and we even saw some "wild" life on while skiing through the woods.

Making tracks!

Enjoying the winter temps in some warm clothes!

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com www.windx-treme.com

December 13, 2013

Training with Piz: Crimp Repeater Smears

December 11, 2013

Random Collection

Adam testing his pinch strength on a 45 degree overhang. There is a lot of weight hanging on those hands!

My first holiday tree as a family man.

Rowan enjoying some hot chocolate.

Sarah Watson (CAMP athlete) Setting some routes while in her Supernova female harness! http://camp-usa.com/products/harnesses/supernova-380.asp

Nicole owning some reach throughs on the systems board.

Justin and his classic wall sits with hand squeezers.

Orson and his Arcteryx baby blanket. Train not included.

Skinning to the top of Powderhorn ski area before they open. Man, I have to get my cardio back in shape. The legs feel fine, but the lungs could be feeling better! Nothing like knee deep powder on your first day out in a couple years!

December 5, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: Side Pulling

December 3, 2013

Great Traning Site from My Friend Mark Anderson

November 12, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: Leaning to Dropknee

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyvoDR2PXME&feature=youtu.be

In this video, the climber is learning how to drop knee and when to incorporate it into her movements.

I know when I learned how to drop knee, I needed my main climbing partner at the time Gregg, who knew how to climb overhanging terrain, telling me when and how to do it. It wasn't easy, I normally did it backwards, but I eventually learned and use it appropriately now.

The purpose of the drop knee to to keep your body closer to the wall during a movement (reach), it also allows you to have a longer reach. Combine those two things and you save energy and power while climbing which will allow you to complete the boulder problems or routes that you are trying to send.

Watch her move and see if you can identify where she has success and where she is stumbling.

Treadwall Training with Piz: More Crimping and Fingerboarding

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lki_idpxmfI&feature=youtu.be

This short video demonstrates how you can work a specific skill. Here I just crimp for 22ft at about 55 degrees overhanging. I have a couple crimp routes on my wall and this is a great way to develop your crimping and crimping strength.

I begin by crimping and not twisting to reach, but as I get tired and my fingers begin to give out I start twisting in order to be more efficient.

Separate the holds just one more panel and it begins to work lock off reaches. Skip one more panel and every move is a lock off and a reach and a crimp. You get the picture. The Treadwall is such a powerful tool.

You must forget that people say that it is a great way to train endurance. The fact is that if you only think that the Treadwall is good for endurance then you better find a coach or someone more knowledgeable than you because you are not seeing 99% of what this tool has to offer.

The other thing that I recently added to my Treadwall is a fingerboard. Thanks to Jesse Z for lending me his fingerboard, I can now work on a few other things. Stay tuned for some of the next level ideas and programs that I have come up with.

October 29, 2013

Training with Piz: Bridging

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

First of all, a bridge is when you lie on your back, place your feet on the ground and raise your hips as high as you can to the ceiling.
You can bridge on many objects, the floor, a chair, a weight bench, a yoga ball, a medicine ball, or pretty much anything.

You can make the bridge more difficult by using only one leg and by placing that one foot on a yoga ball.
You can make it even more difficult and extend the ball out with one or two legs while keeping your hips as high as possible.
Finally, you can even do the one leg extension and hold dumb bells and do a press at the same time.

Here is a bridge that is in the middle of the difficulty levels.
It works your low back and legs and core.
I will tell you that every second that you think that your hips are high enough, raise them a little more because they just slipped back down a bit.

Get out there and have a good time!

piz : )

October 23, 2013

Training with Piz: Mountain Men (AKA Mountain Persons)

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

As long as you have a place to hang a rope with a carabiner or a pulley and a pair of jugs you can perform this exercise.

This is power and endurance and can be challenging because you are actually campusing.

If you need to have some type of assist you can put a chair underneath your feet and have them on it or just one leg or even on a weight bench.

After some practice you can then move to not having your feet touching the ground at all.

October 1, 2013

The Nose and Mayan Smith Gobat

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Some photos from Mike Anderson and my first free ascent of Arcturus on Half Dome 2006 Andrew Burr Photos. Mike and I looking back at El Cap from the top of Half Dome.

Checking out the line Half Dome

A little wear and tear

Mike owning that chimney.

Me on the crux.

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/new-female-speed-record-on-the-nose-el-capitan

Here is a brief summary of how Mayan is showing us how much she loves climbing on El Cap.

I have been able to watch her train and focus on this goal for months and it's great to see her hard work paying off. I will say that we have not seen her go her fastest yet and I look forward to seeing how things turn out.

Mayan has taken a liking to training and is one of the hardest workers that I have ever seen. She takes every session serious and puts forth 100% during every exercise. With that effort and focus she will certainly reach her personal potential when it comes to climbing and especially life.

She has worked hard over the the last year and her dreams are slowly becoming reality.

Go Mayan!!!

September 10, 2013

Training with Piz: Ape Index

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Let's talk about the Ape Index for a little bit.

It is a measure of the ratio of an individuals arm span relative to their height. That definition is used all over the Internet and is not specific to rock climbing, even though many climbers believe that it is a specific climbing term.

Anyway, if you have a positive ape index then you have a longer wing span when compared to your height and a negative one if your arms are shorter than your height.

What can this indicate about you as a climber and about what potential that you have as a climber?
Well here are the conclusion that I have arrived at after many years of observing those around me at the crag, gym or boulders.

First and foremost it doesn't mean much. Most people use it as a crutch to provide a reason for failure/success. I have seen negative ape indexers send the same routes at positive ape indexers
Many an accomplished rock climbers are not only "short in height," but additionally have a 0 or negative ape index.
Having a negative ape index just makes a climber have to be better technically, in addition to needing to be dynamic and flexible. By being good dynamically, a climber can still reach what others may lock off to grab. Also, while being flexible, the climber can use a variety of foot placements and body positions to make accessing holds possible.
Strength and power are also requirements for someone who is shorter, but that goes the same for someone who is taller and with a positive ape index.
The argument that because you can reach it you have an easier time is just a partial truth. In some instances having a positive ape index is a clear advantage, but experience has taught me that just because I can reach it, doesn't mean that I have the skill to use it or climb the route or problem. The demands on the rest of your body are high, especially on overhanging and roof terrain.
I would say that having the extra length from a positive ape index comes in handy on poorly bolted routes and when placing/removing traditional climbing gear.
It is not cool when none of your long sleeve clothing fits properly and you must have things tailored.
Personally, I have had the reach and it can do a few things. First it makes you think that you need to pull harder because you are so extended. (So I trained power to compensate for my bad technique) Secondly, it can make you get extended on your feet creating a situation where you are only used to being stretched out.(I became a predominantly a low foot technical climber) Then, you have to retrain yourself to climb with high feet/crunched up.(One stay at the Red gave me back the ability to climb with scrunched up feet.
The bottom line is that your climbing style, strengths/weaknesses, favorite routes/boulders are partially determined by your body type. And that you can train to overcome any shortcomings that your body type may present.

August 29, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: First Timer on My Wall

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

This is a short video of a first timer on my Treadwall.

My wall is set at a steeper angle than most people climb at regularly, which makes even the "easiest problems" challenging. I think that the wall is right around 50 degrees overhanging which makes the best holds seem small when you have to do a lock off, reach, climb sideways or pretty much do anything.

Grip strength is something that may not come into play on slabs and even vertical routes, but is a game changer on overhanging terrain. Moves become impossible when you can not even hold on. How often do you work your grip strength?

The drop knee is an essential skill to master when climbing overhanging terrain. If you choose to not use them, you will need more power and strength to do simple moves and way more when doing challenging moves. Additionally, you will pump out sooner due to being less efficient with your moves.

Also, making reaches/pulls off holds is more difficult due to the fact that you are overhanging. You must learn to use your feet more efficiently along with your core. I will discuss the specifics in later videos and posts, but I want you to start thinking about what it really takes to move efficiently on your wall whether it is more vertical or more steep.

Let me know what you think this climber needs to do to improve.