Rock Climbing with Rob Pizem: TREADWALL TRAINING WITH ROB PIZEM SCARPA ARCTERYX CAMP-USA STERLING ROPES WINDX-TREME

Showing posts with label TREADWALL TRAINING WITH ROB PIZEM SCARPA ARCTERYX CAMP-USA STERLING ROPES WINDX-TREME. Show all posts

August 26, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz: Pink Single and Double

Watch the two videos.
Look for the following:

my body position

my twisting to reach holds

my grip

my foot work (toe placement)

my proximaty to the wall

when I get a shake

my breathing (if possible)

Then try to apply the succefull movements to your climbing!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHxeC3iqI8A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i5LDDN_gc8

August 14, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz (green triple)

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com

The green holds were sent to me in a package from Treadwall. They were grouped together by color of course and by shape. They are meant to be useful for warming up and for working powerful long moves. This route is all about longer moves and using good technique. I twist to reach the holds rather than staying straight on in my movements. Occasionally, I will reach straight on and that is more of a power move.

Why do I go for three in a row. I want to watch how I respond to fatigue (while watching my technique). It will help me focus on proper form when I am on a real climb outside!

Enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=124A8yS1m_I

Treadwall Training with Piz

July 18, 2014

Stripping (the Treadwall)

http://youtu.be/SZST5bLwBVw

Check out some more beta about route setting!

Changing out the Treadwall routes advice:

Use a drill to remove the bolts. (I have a 18volt drill/hammer drill combo)
Be sure not to remove the highest holds from the wall (otherwise you won't be able to move the wall down to remove more holds.
Set the wall to the least resistance (in order to make moving the wall very easy.)

It took about a half hour to remove all the holds from my KOR model.
I then collected all the bolts in a bin and grouped the holds by color.
I am trying to avoid using tape this next time around and will be setting by colors.
When I got the wall I was not able to set by color due to my lack of holds (I started with zero). But over the course of the year, I was able to get some Menegerie, Pur and Metolius and randoms from purchases and friends. Now that I have a healthy collection, I will set by color when possible and then with tape on the other routes.

Route Setting Goals:

Think about what kinds of routes you and your friends will be attempting to climb.
Then set routes that will develop those skills.
Set in a way in which there are no real cruxes on routes. Go for a consistent difficulty.
Think about moves that you are weak at and set that style on the wall.
Set routes that will allow your fingers a break and ones that you will only try once or twice a session.
Set routes that will allow you to climb very fast and once that will require technique and deliberate precise movements.
Have fun with it!

April 17, 2014

Treadwalling

February 24, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz: When and When Not to Drop Knee Video

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com www.camp-usa.com www.scarpa.com www.sterlingrope.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.brewersledge.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wWLjG-0-jI

Watch this video to learn how to drop knee.

Dropknee: when you reach up with a hand and rotate on the toe of that same foot into the wall.
Purpose: It will keep you closer to the wall (your hips) and allow you to reach further up the wall, and it will be a more efficient use of your energy.

Straight on Reach: this is when you do not drop knee and keep your hips square to the the wall (meaning that they are not twisted from one side or to another)
Purpose: Sometimes its tough to drop knee due to the location of the feet and it makes more sense to use a little bit of power to pull straight on.

I use both as I complete this problem.
Think about how you can switch and use the appropriate one while you are on your climbs!

February 6, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz: Power Endurance Training and Training your Eyes for Observing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnpQ8xe8Vu4&feature=youtu.be

There are a few ways in which you can train to get power endurance.
You can do pyramids or 4x4's while bouldering in the gym or you can have more fun (in my perspective) and use a Treadwall.

I can set a powerful problem on the Treadwall and then climb it an an appropriate pace.
Each move must be challenging/powerful.
Each move must require core tension.
Moves can be dynamic.
Holds can be good or bad.
Holds should work on your weaknesses.
You can incorporate side pulls, cross thru's, under clings, compression moves, matches etc.
No rest holds or positions should be set.

Once I can do the problem, I see how many laps that I can do without falling off in a row.
This video shows that I am just beginning to build my power-endurance since I fall off just a few moves from the start.
Once I can get 2-3 laps in a row, then I will add a shake on the fingerboard in between (typically for 1-2 minutes) between each lap. The hope would be that I would recover, but the reality is that I get more pumped because I am on tiny holds.
When I know that I am in good power endurance shape I can do hard problems in a row with the 1 minute shake on bad holds. I typically will shoot to be able to do 3 laps in a row with that method. (that is about a 70 ft route)

Get out there and have some fun being fit!

piz : )

January 28, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz: What am I doing Wrong (Treadwall Videos)?

Lets just try to identify all the ways in which I am failing, there are many...

Here are two videos of me trying my new problems. Each one has long reaches and cross throughs on 1 pad size crimps. (my weakness)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGcTjbvb4eM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZs_Pg75gJs

Have fun and let me know where I am going wrong and what I could do to be more efficient and use better technique!

January 16, 2014

Treadwall Training with Piz: Training Plans

I know that not everyone or every gym has a Treadwall, but if you have access to one this post is for you! I will be sharing a few ways to incorporate a Treadwall into your program.

A few notes before I begin.

If you have been "training/working out" the same way for a long time (years) and have seen no gains in your climbing you need to reevaluate what you are doing. Cutting the crap, you are wasting your time and not doing anything that is actually developing your weaknesses.
If you think that training is going to the climbing gym and doing some routes, some boulder problems and then using some of the training equipment, then you are NOT working out.
If you are not taking notes and measuring daily progress and tracking your "workouts" then you are not really training seriously and will never make the real gains that you are seeking.
To address some misconceptions, campus boards are not only good for developing power and Treadwalls are not only good for warming up or training endurance. Understanding the tools that are before you and how they can be used to promote physical development is the key to improving fitness. If you don't understand or think that you do, it is worth asking a qualified person to help clarify any confusion.
Finally, Training is Not for Everyone. It requires more hard work, focus and dedication than just going to the gym and climbing.

So how can you use your Treadwall?

You can use it for warming up.

After doing some simple stretching hope on the wall at a more vertical angle and do a couple laps while using good holds.
After a couple laps and a short rest (2-3 minutes) kick the angle back and complete another lap or two on more good holds.
After another short rest period, get back on and increase the difficulty so that you get pumped, keep climbing through the pump as much as you can and move to better holds until you complete those few laps.
Rest and then begin your gym session (whether it is bouldering or routes)

You can use it for power development.

Initially, just lock the Treadwall down (non moving) and work hard 2-3 move boulder problems.
I suggest starting at a just less than vertical angle and doing a problem that you can complete every time, but just barely.
After 2-3 laps on the problem, increase the overhang angle (maybe 5-10 degrees) and try the problem again.
Your goal would be complete the problem at the steepest angle.
Then change problems and begin again with a new sequence.

You can use it for endurance training.

Endurance comes from a high volume of lower intensity climbing.
Choose an appropriate angle (normally less steep at the beginning) and climb a certain number of laps in a controled manner or for a specified time.
Break that up into a few sets with a good rest in between and you will be building your endurance.
If you are climbing at a higher level, then steepen the angle or increase the difficulty of the routes that you are lapping.
Remember that you are attempting to remain at a level of pump that is just below out of control. (that constant forearm "pain" but not to the point that you are going to fall off.

You can use it for power endurance training.

There are a couple methods for doing this and I am sure something that I don't know about too!
One method is to choose 3 or 4 different routes. In one set you will climb one of the routes 4 times in a row with a minute rest inbetween each route. Then rest 5-10 minutes and then do the next route and the third and forth in the same manner. Be sure to choose four routes that work on different styles of climbing and that have different holds and cruxes. I try not to end on a "easy" route because I am looking to increase my threshhold for trying hard and muscle memory. Note doing this before a day of climbing outside will make for a bad day. Build in rest days after doing this type of training.
Another method is to add in a hangboard (like in the photo at the top of the page.) I have found that an effective way to get me able to hang on to routes longer is to do the following. Choose a route (or two if you are at that level) and climb it. Then instead of resting for a minute while sitting on the floor, hang on the fingerboard and shake out for 1-2 minutes, then get on your next problem or routes and then shake out again. Repeat this for up to three or four shake and climb sessions in a set. Then you must rest well before doing the next set. That could mean a 15-20 minute break. Then go for it again. This is particularly destructive. Choose your routes wisely and develop the type of power endurance that you are looking for. The combinations that you choose make or break the training. Also, I try to use smaller and smaller holds to recover on to simulate real rock routes and recovery on them.
A final method that has worked too is to climb fast on a medium difficulty route. Normally doing double or triple laps on that route will get you into the zone of a power endurance route. Choose three to four of those types of routes and climb 3 sets (each set might be 1, 2 or 3 laps) with about a 5 miutes minute rest between each effort and 15-20 between each set.

You can use a Treadwall to develop finger and grip strength.

Choose a route that has all crimps or open handed hold or underclings or whatever and climb it over and over in order to develop your skills. If you want big vertical reaches, work on those with a route set to that style. If you want to work on side pulls and compression, set that kind of route and work on those skills. You can always adjust the angle to make it steeper in order to increase the difficulty if you get a type of move too wired. Be creative, the Treadwall does it all!!

December 13, 2013

Treadwall Love from Andy Reather and Joe Kinder

December 5, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: Side Pulling

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:
www.arcteryx.com
www.camp-usa.com
www.scarpa.com
www.sterlingrope.com
www.americanalpineclub.org
www.brewersledge.com
www.windx-treme.com

This problem gives you a good idea how to set a problem with short and wide side pulls.
It also allows you to see how the movement dictates the body position.
If you are not using your hips, feet and core properly you will fall off routes/problems that are similar to this.

So make sure you continue setting with intent so that you can get the desired results out of your training program

Thanks to Sarah Watson, another great CAMP-USA athlete for setting this one!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pu1vqoeYJ3k&feature=youtu.be

November 23, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: The Big One

November 12, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: Leaning to Dropknee

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyvoDR2PXME&feature=youtu.be

In this video, the climber is learning how to drop knee and when to incorporate it into her movements.

I know when I learned how to drop knee, I needed my main climbing partner at the time Gregg, who knew how to climb overhanging terrain, telling me when and how to do it. It wasn't easy, I normally did it backwards, but I eventually learned and use it appropriately now.

The purpose of the drop knee to to keep your body closer to the wall during a movement (reach), it also allows you to have a longer reach. Combine those two things and you save energy and power while climbing which will allow you to complete the boulder problems or routes that you are trying to send.

Watch her move and see if you can identify where she has success and where she is stumbling.

Treadwall Training with Piz: More Crimping and Fingerboarding

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lki_idpxmfI&feature=youtu.be

This short video demonstrates how you can work a specific skill. Here I just crimp for 22ft at about 55 degrees overhanging. I have a couple crimp routes on my wall and this is a great way to develop your crimping and crimping strength.

I begin by crimping and not twisting to reach, but as I get tired and my fingers begin to give out I start twisting in order to be more efficient.

Separate the holds just one more panel and it begins to work lock off reaches. Skip one more panel and every move is a lock off and a reach and a crimp. You get the picture. The Treadwall is such a powerful tool.

You must forget that people say that it is a great way to train endurance. The fact is that if you only think that the Treadwall is good for endurance then you better find a coach or someone more knowledgeable than you because you are not seeing 99% of what this tool has to offer.

The other thing that I recently added to my Treadwall is a fingerboard. Thanks to Jesse Z for lending me his fingerboard, I can now work on a few other things. Stay tuned for some of the next level ideas and programs that I have come up with.

October 18, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: The Triple

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGzdjJX-MM0&feature=youtu.be

Enjoy my video effort and then the explanation of my training plan in the video and the write up on my Youtube site!

piz : )

October 14, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: Shoes

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Check out my little reminder on why you should wear your good shoes while training.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSRYesDFZOA&feature=youtu.be

Wear good shoes while training. If you don't, you just ingrain bad footwork and habits into your technique and then when you are trying your project, your feet wont know how to behave!

I work out on a steep Treadwall and if I am wearing old shoes or shoes that are not downturned or a different pair than what I normally wear for most routes, my feet tend to respond differently when I am outside.

When I was young and a competitive golfer (yes I was at one time) one of my coaches told me that Perfect Practice Makes Perfect. He would say that as my buddies and I were trying to hit the guy driving the golf cart who was picking up range balls. That kind of horseplay was fun and there really is no better feeling than tagging that cart, but it doesn't help your golf game. It just ingrains the bad habits that you do not want.

So next time you are jumping around and goofing off while at the gym or even outside. Ask yourself, is this really something that I need to work on or am I just working on my circus tricks.

October 8, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: Liebacking Video

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7UXo99GBfU&feature=youtu.be

Unfortunately the video file is just a bit too large for blogger to handle, so I had to link it.

My latest project on the desert sandstone is comprised of some difficult liebacking on small crimps.
I figured that the best way to set with intent for my next batch of problems would be to use lots of crimps (good) and find a way to simulate the moves on my project.

The route has long and short reaches with no feet (as in nothing to stand on but the opposing wall).
So, I am trying to set routes with a minimum of two challenging moves (moves that are tougher than the rest of the route), while keeping the over all challenge of the route high in between those moves.

I find that while on my project that I have to fight a few spots with major barn door potential. Since the feet are so poor (nonexistent) and that holds are so small, there is no way to recover once it starts.
If I can simulate that feeling, then I can prepare for being in the best position to not be pulled off the climb. So by placing the transition moves in the problem from one side to another, it allows me to evenly train my liebacks and fight the ensuing barn door as my fatigue increases.

Another problem that I have on my project is that I am able to do the one type of move very well, but when the move changes to a long reach or a powerful reach, I get shut down. So those two transition moves are designed to simulate the end of a sequence of something that I am strong at and force me into something that I am weak at.

Lastly, I try to keep my feet high the entire time because that is what is required on the project outside.

The biggest thing that I have to watch out for or training too much on the Treadwall and not being properly rested for my day on the real project outside. Add to that working full time, having a second job, raising two kids and supporting my wife, it makes it pretty tough to be rested for the project. No matter, I will get there and it will be fun to continue strengthening my weaknesses.

piz : )

September 12, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: One Route Requires Lots of Techniques!

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

The wall is at 50 degrees overhanging. Not so much by choice but by necessity.
This route was set with the intent of creating a variety of reaches and side pulls.
The grips consist of in cut crimp and large jugs. All holds are placed to be used as side pulls and sometimes they are very far apart.

Procedure

I want you to watch the video where Ben climbs the route.
What do you notice Ben doing in order to successfully climb the route without falling.
Ask yourself whether or not you have those skills.

What I want you to remember is that we are developing our skills by watching others who do things well and then trying to incorporate those skills into our own climbing.

Things that I noticed:

If Ben missed the perfect grip, he resets on the hold and stays tight to the wall (core)
When he makes those long reaches, he is sure to not only back step the same side of his side that he is reaching but also moving with velocity rather than just locking off.
Sometimes a back step is not the right body position for the move, so he chooses to use a flag (where you hang one leg behind you and use it for balance and sometimes even momentum).
Sometimes Ben needs to crimp and sometimes he needs to open hand. The hold and hand strength determine what grip position will work best for you. The overall goal is to always use the least amount of strength on every hold of a route. Being able to turn in off and on is one of the best skills that you can have as a climber whether you are bouldering or climbing routes.
Dead pointing is when you almost lunge to a hold and hit it perfectly. Ben chooses to use that technique while completing this route. It requires confidence, grip strength, core tension and a lot of practice.
Cutting your feet. Sometimes the most efficient movement on an overhang is to cut your feet. Watch Ben as he does this to regain his position.
Core tension. If you have not noticed from this blog, core tension is what it is all about. YOU MUST have control of your body at all times in order to put your self in the best position for success on routes.
Patience. Ben waits till the time is right to make his moves. He aligns his body, sets his feet and finds the right head space in order to execute the move properly. These are all skills required for sending!
Compression is huge for side pulling and is directly related to core tension!

What else did I miss?

August 29, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: First Timer on My Wall

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

This is a short video of a first timer on my Treadwall.

My wall is set at a steeper angle than most people climb at regularly, which makes even the "easiest problems" challenging. I think that the wall is right around 50 degrees overhanging which makes the best holds seem small when you have to do a lock off, reach, climb sideways or pretty much do anything.

Grip strength is something that may not come into play on slabs and even vertical routes, but is a game changer on overhanging terrain. Moves become impossible when you can not even hold on. How often do you work your grip strength?

The drop knee is an essential skill to master when climbing overhanging terrain. If you choose to not use them, you will need more power and strength to do simple moves and way more when doing challenging moves. Additionally, you will pump out sooner due to being less efficient with your moves.

Also, making reaches/pulls off holds is more difficult due to the fact that you are overhanging. You must learn to use your feet more efficiently along with your core. I will discuss the specifics in later videos and posts, but I want you to start thinking about what it really takes to move efficiently on your wall whether it is more vertical or more steep.

Let me know what you think this climber needs to do to improve.

August 27, 2013

Treadwall Training with Piz: Mayan Smith Gobat

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WindX-treme

Just a little clip of Mayan working out some moves on the treadwall.

Who else is using treadwalls?
I know a few pro's like: Josh Wharton, Andy Reather, Bill Ramsey, Ben Rueck and many others.

This thing is no joke people. Using one systematically to build and develop ones weaknesses is a sure fire way to enhance your climbing skills from technique to strength. By no means does it work with your lead head. That is the mental part of climbing training and that has to become a way of life your attitude, your perspective, but it will take you to a higher level when used appropriately.