July 18, 2014

Stripping (the Treadwall)

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I am changing out all my holds once a year. The reason for this is that I can have the theme of routes on the wall long enough in order to really see growth.

Check out some more beta about route setting!

Changing out the Treadwall routes advice:
  1. Use a drill to remove the bolts. (I have a 18volt drill/hammer drill combo)
  2. Be sure not to remove the highest holds from the wall (otherwise you won't be able to move the wall down to remove more holds. 
  3.  Set the wall to the least resistance (in order to make moving the wall very easy.)
It took about a half hour to remove all the holds from my KOR model.
I then collected all the bolts in a bin and grouped the holds by color.
I am trying to avoid using tape this next time around and will be setting by colors.
When I got the wall I was not able to set by color due to my lack of holds (I started with zero). But over the course of the year, I was able to get some Menegerie, Pur and Metolius and randoms from purchases and friends. Now that I have a healthy collection, I will set by color when possible and then with tape on the other routes.

Route Setting Goals:
  1. Think about what kinds of routes you and your friends will be attempting to climb.
  2. Then set routes that will develop those skills.
  3. Set in a way in which there are no real cruxes on routes. Go for a consistent difficulty. 
  4. Think about moves that you are weak at and set that style on the wall.
  5. Set routes that will allow your fingers a break and ones that you will only try once or twice a session.
  6. Set routes that will allow you to climb very fast and once that will require technique and deliberate precise movements.
  7. Have fun with it!                   


  1. Rob, great tips, as a spring and fall climber I tend to strip my Treadwall every 6 months to fit my goals for the coming season. The only thing I do differently is to retain at least one "favorite" 20' problem. That "favorite" route is taken down first, goes straight into the dishwasher and gets reset for the opposite hand. Reversal the hand may require a little tweaking, but it provides a at least one old friend to climb, as we set new boulder problems.

  2. Glad you agree Peter. I like the idea of resetting your favorite for the opposite hand.