I got a new camera!!
ahh yeah.
I will get some new photos up here soon.
Until then get out and climb!
piz : )
Rob Pizem's blog. This blog is about my family, my training and my rock climbing adventures. I like to rock climb, boulder and be outdoors. One of my favorite things to do is to establish new climbs in new areas.
September 28, 2010
September 17, 2010
September 16, 2010
More random stuff
Bring it on...
September 15, 2010
Camera's Broke
No new stuff for a little while, can't afford a new camera!
Just expect some awesome old photos.
piz : )
Just expect some awesome old photos.
piz : )
September 8, 2010
Ouray Backpacking
Jane at the top of the pass. She was really happy at this point because we were at the highest point of the trail and it was basically all down hill from here. Beautiful scenery, the headwaters of streams, soft high alpine grasses and shrubs. What a place to camp and watch the sunset!
On day two, the trail crossed the base of this rotten cliff band. We saw a ton of mountain goats traversing the top of the wall above us and as Jane was crossing a section of washed out trail. The goats sent down boulders and luckily Jane was able to scamper out of the way back to me. Otherwise she was going to be crippled or dead from all the rockfall and the gully that she was barely standing in.
September 2, 2010
Ouray Backpacking with Jane!
Last of Tehipite Climbing
Fighting Irish cloud...nah I don't think so.
One of the upper pitches of the final 1200ft. This route was already established and is a wonderful 6 pitch (each pitch being 200+ ft long) route that goes at about 5.11. The route has a first and last slab pitch with great vertical crack climbing in between! Here is a sporty endevour with very few bolts being placed on the slab.
Ari nearing the top of our route on the last techy 5.11 crux. Notice that he is always ready to party with that shirt on!!
Ari coming up the monster 4th pitch of 5.11 big hands. Straight up and straight down perfect splitter and not a loose part of the wall in sight. What was amazing about this wall is that we hardly had to do any cleaning. The wall had no flakey rock or crumbley stone. It is really a choice line on a choice piece of stone. Compared to El Cap it certainly is a rival in rock quality.
September 1, 2010
RaNDoM
Bangs Canyon, just outside Grand Junction. I have been hiking and climbing in the canyon establishing new crack climbs on the variable sandstone. There are a few problems left to be completed and then I will move on, but until then I will head out there after work and see what I can clean up into a nice sandy crack climbing experience. My first route ascends the middle of the highest tower, it is an 5.11+ slightly overhanging 4 and 5 inch corner called Flash Flood. What good fun!! This route can be approached from the Mica Mine trail and it is the biggest and highest obvious dihedral in the tower section on the right side of the trail before you reach the white quartz part of the trail. Approach from the base of that cliff line and hike up the ridge to the route. It will require a little bit of scrambling. Once you pass through a narrow slot (walking but take off your pack) you will be on a shelf, follow it to where it ends and traverse to the belay at the dihedral over what looks like a huge block. Gear for Flash Flood is 1 #3, 3 #4's 2 #5's. I did it with a little less and was pretty nervous. Enjoy!
I just cleaned and put in anchors on this dihedral. It looks like a nice easy pitch to get the the half way point and then a little excitement out the overhanging off width dihedral. Bring the big gear and plan on getting scrappy! I went out Friday after work and thanks to Jane was able to have a belay for this one. It turns out to be an easy flake start, a little spicy due to some rock that you don't think is solid but it actually is solid to the belay. 5.9. Then the upper pitch climbs this chimney/OW at 5.10-. I got sucked into its depths and had to come back out. There is a bit of newness to the route but it is a fun outing if you don't want to clip bolts at the gneiss. I recommend a rack from .75 -5inch, 2 #3's, 2 #4's, and 2 #5's. There are anchors at each belay and a 60m rope is plenty for both raps. Overall, its a 5.9 to a 5.10 and I called it High Water. Not the cleanest route but fun desert scrapping! It is located just before the Mica on on the south side of the canyon. You can take the old dirt road up to it from where the mica mine trail turns white with quartz. You kind of look at the line the whole way up from the trail.
I bargained this dresser from a local thrift store for 20 bucks! What a great anniversary present for Jane. Here we are painting it black so the undercoat looks dark when we put a light coat of teal over the top! Painting with your wife is a great rest day activity.
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