August 28, 2010

Tehipite Climbing

Ari figuring out how to beat the sunburn on the back of his neck. He also has a Halloween costume for this year too!
Ari heading up pitch 4. Its about 150+ ft of 3 and 4 inch crack with three roofs at the start. Each roof is square cut and pretty casual for this monster 5.11 pitch. After the last roof, the pitch is 3.5 inches for close to 80ft up dead vertical granite that is so good you don't think that it is possible! I am jugging on a fixed line and shooting photos of mike b and ari on this day.

Mike B heading up pitch 3. This is a cool dihedral with plenty of good holds and gear placements. There is one bolt and a pin through the blank sections and it climbs nicely with all the rests at 5.10+/11-. If you want to climb this route, you should be able to climb pitches 1-4 or 5 by the time the sun hits you and then get into the shade above pitch 6 for almost the rest of the climb!
Ari smiling because he is so happy to be on Tehipite Dome. Another amazing pitch of Sierra granite all to ourselves!!
Ari leading out the only pitch with trees on it! Pitch one ascends this corner and isn't as bad as it looks. Begin from a 1 bolt belay on a ledge after some scrambling up ledges and the base of the wall for a few hundred feet. This pitch ends at a bolt and the first and only 5.12 pitch on the route. Pitch 1 chimes in at 5.9ish with some adventure and is the only pitch with bushes on it in about 1300ft. The rock is safe and you get to climb on/through the trees to get to the belay.
Stay tuned for the entire topo and more photos and stories.
Hope to see you out there getting it done!
piz : )

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