Rock Climbing with Rob Pizem: 2009

December 31, 2009

More Mexico

In this video short, Mike and I have hitched a ride with the beer truck from town back to the Posada (the campground). You never know what you will be up to when Mike B is around!
We had spent some time in town buying some fresh food and trying to get the local police to open up a wall that had been closed due to rock fall. We eventually got permission from the city to inspect the wall (by climbing it of course) and unfortunately it looked pretty unstable. Who knows what will happen in the future with safe climbing access to the Jungle Wall.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Mexico Trip Report

Me at the base of some climb. Above: Mike Brumbaugh with the Outrage wall in the background. He is enjoying the view on one of the spires at the park.

We stayed at the Posada and this was our room.

Simple but nice and a really really hot shower!

To the right: Mike on Time Wave Zero a fun 22 pitch climb in the park. We climbed it in a little over an hour and a half.

Mike on the phone while we wait it out in Dallas.

The Monterrey, Mexico airport was closed due to fog so we had to spend a night in Dallas.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

December 28, 2009

Back from My Travels

Good day folks,
After a week in Mexico, followed by a week in Ohio,
I will now be back updating the blog on a regular basis.
Some quick updates before the photos and stories begin later this week.
We were able to climb almost 180 pitches while at Potrero Chico!
My Cleveland trip was spent with my wonderful family, trail running, ice skating, hiking and of course eating home cooked meals. It has been most excellent.
I even had time to pull my groin : ( oh well a bit more rest before training begins again.
Happy Holidays and I hope to see you all in 2010!

piz : )

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

December 9, 2009

New Routes for All

Jane belaying me on The Flight of the Peacock 5.13- at the Peacock boulders/climbing area. About a 40+ foot fight to the top! Get tired at the top and you are taking the flight of the peacock. This route has it all, kneebars, crimps, side pulls, pinches and jugs.

Some of Janes family on the newer 5.9's!

Janes brother Matt, climbing on a cold thanksgiving break day.

December 8, 2009

Cool Days Climbing Tip Number 3

Its been pretty cold here in Denver the last week or so and most climbers have been stuck climbing indoors. My advice to all you folks pulling on plastic is to make sure that you take the time to warm up properly.
It is easy to get all excited at the chance to boulder and lead indoors after being stuck inside for days, but be careful not to make this winter a time for recovery instead of a time to build strength and power. Warm up you arms, shoulders, fingers hands and stretch your legs. Any series of common excersizes will do the job, but just do them! You and your body will love you when spring time is just around the corner and you are not nursing a lingering finger or shoulder injury!

I head to Mexico on Friday for the Climb a Thon in Potrero Chico!
Continue to make donations and support any quality local causes.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

December 4, 2009

Running/Climbing Gear

Gear summary: Scarpa Raptor trail running shoes (awesome)
Arcteryx: vest=Celeris, pant=Gamma LT, glove=Delta,=Tau Pullover

Ge4t outside and play!

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

December 3, 2009

More of the Gear that I need!

My Favorite Sites/Fundraiser

The Climbing for kids is going very well.
Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado will be very happy with the unexpected additional funds this year!
Thanks for your continued support and for all those who are able to help out in any way.

piz : )

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com

December 2, 2009

Rob Pizem Climbing

Just letting you know what goodies my sponsors provide me. Thanks!

Norway Photos

At the summit with A-Burr, Brian H and Mike B. (A-Burr must be on riods!)

Mike and I somewhere on the 1000 foot wall!

Perfect splitter cracks on this one. Brian heading up.

Mike looking for some TP. hehehe

Just another 1000 foot roadside granite route in Lofoton, Norway.

Its time for some more Norway photos, enjoy!

November 30, 2009

Weekend with the Peters

The morning after the race! Fresh snow.

Attempting to move a river raft from the upstairs bedroom with Cindy and Rob Peters

Trying to slide the raft through the upstairs bedroom balcony.

The boat almost on the ground floor!

A happy Cindy next to her pride and joy! : )

Jane and I stayed with some wonderful friends in Moab the weekend of her 50km race.

I got to help out moving a river raft from the upstairs bedroom (fully inflated) to a storage unit down the road.

Thanksgiving

Update on the Big Bothers Big Sisters Climb a Thon
We have raised nearly 800 dollars!
Thanks so much and keep the donations coming.
I will make the contribution just before new year when I return from Mexico!

Other than that Thanksgiving with my wifes family was excellent in Cuchara, Colorado.
We ate, went climbing, watched movies, ate some more, played cards, played with dogs and jept in touch with family!
I even bolted two new climbs on the sandstone near the house!

November 24, 2009

Climb a Thon

Hey everyone, I would like to invite anyone who would like to donate to the Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado to contact me at pizem@hotmail.com

You have until December 19 to help out!

Thanks

piz : )

November 20, 2009

Climbing for Kids

Climbing For Kids

Rob Pizem and Mike Brumbaugh are asking for your help!

We are looking for cash donations this holiday season to help support the wonderful work of the Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado!

Rob and Mike will be heading to Hildalgo, Mexico to climb as many rock climbs as they can at El Potrero Chico in one weeks time.

All you have to do is volunteer to make a donation or volunteer to match a dollar amount to the number of routes Rob and Mike can complete in a week!

Example : If They climb 50 routes in a week, you donate $50. It’s that easy.

Rob and Mike are attempting to climb between 20 to 40 routes a day, because they want to raise as much money as they can for the children of Colorado.

Please contact:
Rob Pizem at 303 565 6022 or pizem@hotmail.com,
with your donation information or help out in the following ways:

Donate over the Phone: 303 433 6002 ext.525

Donate by Mail:
Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado
1391 N Speer Blvd, Ste 450
Denver, CO 80204
*Make checks payable to Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado

Mission Statement of Big Brother Big Sisters of Colorado
The mission of Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado is to help children reach their full potential through professionally supported, one-to-one, volunteer mentoring relationships with measurable impact.

November 18, 2009

Jane Race Video

The race was beautifully set all over the mountains and valleys, slick rock and sand, and flats and cliffs just outside Moab, Utah.

Jane Race Photos

Jane on the last, long hill climb! The Colorado river in the background.

Jane cruising through the desert.

Jane running through the brush along the Colorado river near Kane Creek.

Jane at the prerace meeting with her favorite CAMP trail running pack.

Jane made Lexi pee before the race!
Here is a summary of the Janes first ultra marathon (50km).

-woke up, ate a bagel with pb and j and some diet pepsi

-made doggy pee

-stretched and light jog

-8 hour run/walk through desert (on and off trail)

-finish with tight IT bands and a taste for next years!

Great job Jane!

November 14, 2009

The rAcE

On the Fisher Towers freeing the moves with my CAMP helmet and Arcteryx's Dually Belay Jacket and R-320 harness in the freezing temps. AHH YEAH.

Hanging around on my roof crack project in the South Platte, Colorado.

My beautiful wife, Jane : )

This is the weekend that my wife Jane has been training for months for.

The Moab Ultimate XC is a 56km race through the desert, all off trail, all burly.

She has to climb up clifflines over the Colorado river, scramble through boulders and make her way through sandy slot canyons. She rules! I posted a wedding shot of us. Yeah, I got married in my Arcteryx Spotter pants. : )

So, I have been letting my fingers heal for a week now.

They are close to being able to be used again!
Yeah!! This week off I have have had time to take care of stuff at home and work with a new client at the climbing gym. A climber who has been climbing longer than I have been alive and still aggressive and wanting to improve! It is really fun to work with folks who are ready to take a closer look at their talents and modify what they have been doing in the name of improving.

I think that improving at anything requires the ability to constantly self monitor and evaluate.

Look closely at your habits, movements, strengths and weaknesses and dissect them and adjust them for whatever goal you are shooting for. I have had to do this on many a routes in order to complete them.

November 8, 2009

Something Funny

This guy doesn't look that extreme!
Ari, sleeping in the van while in Norway.

He's in the middle of drooling on me!

I am Lame!

I sliced into three of my four fingers on my left hand while cutting bread for breakfast.

November 6, 2009

More Norway

We got the rain that everyone talks about way up north in Norway but it was still cool walking around the tiny fishing villages of Lofoton. From the looks of the climbers in front of me, there are never poor conditions for climbing here!

On our rain day, we found Lofoton's version of a roof crack, pretty short, but mainly dry. I was feeling under the weather this day and taking black liquorish flavored cough medicine! It was not good, but it helped I think : ) I think that Brian was giving it a try in this shot. (mike and ari were spotting)

Brian and Ari coming up one of the early routes we climbed on a perfect day!

The views were unparalelled while hiking to climbs and while climbing them. Our rental is on the road below and the hike was just 15 minutes on a nice trail! Later on the trip Andy jumped off that bridge to the left and bruised his butt on entry (had to be nearly a 50 foot drop into the icey water below)

Roadside bouldering goes on for miles!

November 2, 2009

The Finished Product

Unpainted but beautiful!

Wheels for the bottom

Cutting board and microwave holder space and garbage in the bottom.

Snow Days

filing my hinge for smooth operation.

Making the intial measurements before making the cuts.

These are what we started with. Pieces of pine.

Dave and Ali on Halloween Eve. I mean Ron and Veronica!

Our house with lots of snow!

Last week we had a late October snow storm adn for my district, three snow days in a row!
I was able to rest, sleep in, clean the house, train for climbing and spend time with my wife.

It was a wonderful unanticipated break that will not be forgotten. I was able to build a garbage box for my house and work on my power at the local climbing gyms.

Jane and I also watched the movie Drag Me to Hell with some friends on Halloween Eve.

October 28, 2009

Shark Fin

Here is what the steepest tower in the utah desert looks like.
Be sure to bring a helmet, bring your A-game and a little luck to be sure that all the holds stay on the wall as you attempt to free it! This is pitch 2 on the climb and its full of solution pockets, horizontal and vertical cracks and loose rock (but not that much, I cleaned most of it off). It's nice and pumpy and exposed as you can see. Andrew Burr photograph.

This is one of my favorite photos. On the last pitch crux of the route. One old pin out a roof between you and the anchor. Totem Pole off in the distance of Monument Valley and an eerie feeling like you are hanging off a cliff on Mars. Andrew Burr photograph.

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/deserts_steepest_tower_goes_free/

October 26, 2009

Press News

The November 2009 Issue of Urban Climber Magazine is out!
Check out the issue for information on climbing gyms of the future, bouldering in France
and of climbing in Arizona. (there are many cool photos of me climbing on a variety of routes in Arizona from 2007.)

Plus keep your eyes peeled on the American Alpine Clubs trip report blog for a recap of my Green River canoe trip this past September, 2009.
http://inclined.americanalpineclub.org/2009/10/26/wide-cracks-and-weird-towers-along-the-green-river/#more-811

October 21, 2009

Climbing Tip Number Two

Fall may be upon us and the temperatures may be getting cooler, but even though the outdoor conditions are getting better for sticking to the rock, they may become a bit more unstable.

My second tip involves reminding you that when it's tough to get outside and you find yourself pulling on plastic, there are a couple things you should remember:

1. Your outdoor shoe may not be the best for indoor climbing. (ask a gym/shop employee to recommend a shoe that will be better for the style of the gym or home wall that you are climbing on)

2. Make sure that you climb inside just like you climb outside. Repeat your outdoor habits indoors, so your body will remember what your supposed to do and not get mixed up. (example of what not to do: if you are a slow and thoughtful climber outside, don't practice climbing as fast as you can on toprope. (It doesn't help you improve your technique or muscle memory or heart rate; it just makes you tired and ingrains climbing fast which is not what you want.)

3.Use the gym to practice some of the skills/movements that you have trouble on outside. That way you will build a better base for growth and development of your skill set for the future. Practice those things that you are not good at and accept that you will fail at completing them at the beginning and have faith that you will master them in a few weeks/months.

October 20, 2009

More Norway Climbing Photos

Seaside climbing with beautiful views of the coast and sailboats.

We got rained out of the bigwall climbing on only two days, but the sport cragging was steep and well protected and just a short hike from the shore. I think it is around 2 am right now! Here Mike Brumbaugh gets it done on an unknown route.

The fish are dried on these racks and then shipped to places like Italy or South America. There was an awefull stink around while walking under these old wooded racks. I considered campusing the old wood but feared the smell of dead fish would never leave my hands!

A dried Cod from Norway. My hand for scale.

Each day the weather was good, we'd wake up from camp on the beach (whenever) and then climb as long as we wanted because there was never any darkness. Approaches were generally very short and well marked and the climbing was vertical to slabby granite crack with great gear and comfy belays.