Showing posts with label maximum climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label maximum climbing. Show all posts

August 26, 2013

Training with Piz: Controlling Your Body

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

In this current video: http://www.rockandice.com/video-gallery/adam-ondra-sending-move-5-15b
Adam Ondra is climbing and in absolute control of his body while in this video.

I want you to watch the following things: (His actions are calculated and precise).
  • notice how well he puts his feet back on the wall after he cuts them. (strong core/great footwork)
  • watch his core throughout each movement. (it doesn't sag on the steep terrain/staying tight is best on overhanging rock)
  • watch how he uses momentum to make reaches to the next grip. (he is not locking off nor lunging, but almost swinging and pushing hard with his feet and then tightening his core upon grabbing the next hold, then finally relaxing)
  • watch how his body falls into a natural position where he is on a straight arm rather than a contracted arm (bent/locked off) (he hangs as a child would on a jungle gym it is most efficient to be able to "let go" on holds.)
  • watch the speed at which he can climb (decreases pump/time on bad holds/knows where he is going)
  • listen to his breathing (this is a huge part of being successful (don't hold your breath) promote blood and oxygen flow to decrease being oxygen deprived)
I am sure that I missed something else, but the big question that you need to ask yourself concerns whether or not you are doing some or all of these things while you climb. If you are not then you are building in small ways to fail when you are attempting to climb at your max.

You actually are never climbing at your maximum if you don't have these physical things under control and the mental game too. Check out Eric Horst's: Maximum Climbing book to rethink how you approach your mental training for climbing and your life.

May 9, 2013

Maximum Climbing Book Review

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme


Book Review: Maximum Climbing by Eric Horst

When I first read the title Maximum Climbing, it made me want to read it cover to cover as soon as I had it in my hands. Eric Horst, who I consider a climbing guru has been climbing for over thirty years and who has trained many a successful climber, has written yet another reference book for climbing that can take you to the next level.

Initially, I thought that it would be a training book that would focus more on the physical aspects of climbing, but as I dove deeper into the pages, I realized that this text was all about successfully maximizing your brain use throughout the whole process of climbing, training and even life!

Horst breaks the book down into three main parts (I have paraphrased):

1.       Your brain,

2.       How to develop your brain,

3.       Programs of brain training techniques to adopt and adapt for your own life.

Each portion offers tips/strategies for the reader to include in not only their daily lives, but especially into their climbing lives. For me, I was struck with an inner happiness that I was doing what Horst has suggested in order to live a happier life and reach my personal potential as a climber.

There are plenty of technical terms in part 1 which strengthen and detract. I know many climbers who just want the information in layman’s terms rather than the technical jargon. They trust that the author has done their homework. I am one of those guys who appreciates the technical jargon and who will use it later in life as inquiring minds want to know the why behind what we should be doing.

Part 2 is the meat of the text and should be highlighted and reread often. The topics range from self-awareness, to goal setting, to improving your concentration and focus. For many people the managing fear and behavior modification will be sections that you reread and practice over and over.

Part 3 is the chapter that brings it all together. After reading it and reflecting upon the way that I approach my climbing and life, I realized that I can find many parallels in what Horst is saying in my own life. By using goal setting, visualization before and after climbing, and having a positive mental outlook not only about sending a route, but in life you can refocus, eliminate waste and negative feelings and focus all of your mental energy on your chosen route or path.

The message of the book is simple is simple; the challenge is to live and breathe it. Horst mentions those climbers who have accomplished great things including his conversations with Todd Skinner and makes the realization that Todd’s greatness came from the way he approached life, not that he was an extraordinary athlete by birth.

In conclusion, there are three factors that make a great climber. In no particular order, I believe that there is the physical, mental and technical aspect. By not addressing all three, a climber will never reach their personal limit. This book offers the power of understanding how to harness your mental game and take it to a new level.