Climbing Classes and Systems Boards

Jane crossing a cold stream in Northeastern Ohio over winter break.

Last night I ran a class that showed climbers how to use and implement a systems board training program into their climbing routine. The class focused on where to begin, the purpose of the board, the types of exercises performed and how often to use it. I was surprised to see how many climbers (or at least folks who use the gym) don't know how to use the equipment that they are paying for the service of using.


It makes me wonder how many services that are provided to us that we pay for and don't actually take advantage of. I am sure that there are many services in my life that I overlook or don't use at all.


So why am I discussing this on my blog, well when you are buying clothing, gear or even planning a trip, I hope that you are sure to check out and use everything that you are offered. Sometimes these services make your life a whole lot more enjoyable and successful. The Systems Board is one piece of equipment that is probably at your local gym that you can really be improving your overall climbing with and its at no additional charge.

Some ways that a Systems Board will help your climbing with proper training:
core tension, lock off strength, target practice for hitting/grabbing holds, contact strength, pockets, mono's, multi-finger pockets, underclings, side pulls, gastons, lie-backing, jugs, slopers, pinches, backsteps, high steps, long moves, crunched up moves, sideways reaches, bumps to and from any type of holds, (if the board is an adjustable angle board) overhanging climbing techniques... The list goes on and will truly benifit you as a rock climber.





I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Shark Fin

Here is what the steepest tower in the utah desert looks like.
Be sure to bring a helmet, bring your A-game and a little luck to be sure that all the holds stay on the wall as you attempt to free it! This is pitch 2 on the climb and its full of solution pockets, horizontal and vertical cracks and loose rock (but not that much, I cleaned most of it off). It's nice and pumpy and exposed as you can see. Andrew Burr photograph.
This is one of my favorite photos. On the last pitch crux of the route. One old pin out a roof between you and the anchor. Totem Pole off in the distance of Monument Valley and an eerie feeling like you are hanging off a cliff on Mars. Andrew Burr photograph.

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/deserts_steepest_tower_goes_free/

Spearhead with Brian Kimball

One of the sweet snow/ice traverses. Those spires in the background are just below the summit of Longs Peak (the diamond)

Brian on the best pitch of the day!

Birds of Fire is somewhere up this nearly 1000 ft wall.

Not sure the bird but the camoflauge is amazing!

Brian on the way to the route.

Over the years I have been lucky enough to meet quite a few people worth spending time with. Unfortunately, as we all get busier and busier it becomes more difficult to spend time together. Well as the timing was perfect, Brian and I (who I haven't climbed with in a looong time) were able to make a last chance effort on a route he's wanted to climb all summer in Rocky Mountain National Park. It lies just west of Longs Peak and is on the northwest face of Chief's Head. The climb was supposed to be on of the best of its kind in the US, so I couldnt turn down the opportunity to hike up to the base without gear (since Brian had stashed it at the base back in June). To the base of the wall its about 6 miles up hill past mountain lakes of a glacially carved valley. You are constanly seeing wildlife, passing near waterfalls and watching fish jump or crossing high alpine meadows and boulder fields. It's an uplifting place that is for sure. We arrived at dawn and began the hike to the wall and chatted about whatever came to mind. It was my first time hiking with someone who had an i-pod playing the entire time and it was kinda cool to hear music on the trail and while on the wall. Well as the day was perfect and since there was no sign of bad weather coming something had to go wrong. The first thing was that Brian couldn't find his gear bag that he buried under rocks back in June. It took an hour of looking under every flat boulder before he found the two ropes and the rack of cams, draws, and nuts. We were lucky in that no animals did any chewing and all the equipment was in perfect condition. The next problem was that it had already started snowing at 13000+ feet and there was a lot of snow on the shady wall that we were going to climb. The high temperatures would have been around 35 degrees F where we were supposed to climb the route Birds of Prey. So after eating some crackers and peanut butter we buried our packs under some stones and headed up the wall that was in front of our face, Spearhead. Brian had climbed some routes on it before and spoke of a wonderful line called the Barb, so we started up the wall hoping to actually find it and climb the great alpine pitches. This however was more difficult than we expected due to the fact that we didn't have a map of the route or a description. To make a long cold story short, we wandered up various cracks with a climbing rack that was wayyyyy too small, crossed icy and snowy ledges without any gear, traversed way too many pitches and grabbed more loose flakes that I care to in my life. We did managed to find some perfect cracks with some great climbing on them. After topping out with our down jackets on, we rappelled the wall and humped it back to the truck another 6 miles and watched the moonrise as it was totally dark by the time we were 3 miles from the road. Our knees hurt, we didn't get to even try the route we wanted too but it still was a great day!

You did what? Part 2

Jason in the "Batcracker".

Nelson in a tube dropping off into the abyss below.

Jason happy to exit the "Rectangle".

Jason and Nelson not thrilled at the wait to get into the cave.

The punchbowl wall at Lime creek. A mixture of choss and good rock.

So after the river fun we decided that it was time to head out (although I felt that I could remain at Steamboat Rock all weekend). The drive was long and the time was passed with Nelson providing us with many stories of his past years on the road. One of my favorites was the one about him nearly being pronounced dead in a car (he was just sleeping but wasn't waking when some folks were trying).

We arrived at Lime Creek climbing area near Eagle, Colorado late and crashed in another beautiful alpine setting. I didn't rest too well because of the mouse that was scurrying around the back of my truck with me. Unfortunately, he won and I was out on the ground after about an hour of hearing him scramble back and forth along the floor. The next morning we all felt a bit haggard from all the swimming and hiking at Dinoasaur National Monument. It was hot and it took a great deal more energy from us than we expected. I hadn't visited Lime Creek in many years and knew that it was a nice place to check out every once in a while. It's no Ceuse, France, but at least it's not the same old front range climbing. We clipped bolts on some of the steeper routes and got pumped early on and finished with some of the technical vertical slab climbs. The day ended early as the temperatures got hot really fast. In order not to waste time I decided to take the boys on a tour of the Fulford Cave which was just down the road.

The cave stays about 45 degrees year round and was going to be a great alternative to the heat of the day. I prepped my partners for the possibility of some other folks in the cave and as we arrived after the hike, there were about 40 people exiting the cave. By the time we entered, Nelson and Jason were kinda bitter about the experience (they changed their attitude once we started down the pipe though). The three of us cruised through the caves many twisting and muddy tunnels, crawling and croutching and walking and squirming. After they were good and muddy we moved into the Rectangle and I was happily suprised how they greased the tight squeeze barely wider than your hips and shoulders.

After signing the log book and cursing the Boy Scouts who made them wait, we moved through the rest of the cave. The only thing that was a bummer was when we exited the cave. We had left our full water bottles outside the entrance and when we got there someone had taken them. What doesn't make sense to me is why someone would take a full bottle of water from the outside of the cave when they knew that people were still in there. Oh well, chalk that up to ignorance I guess. Those boy scouts still have a lot to learn.

jane in training

One of the first pieces of art we saw this year (2009) at the Sweden/Norway border. Unfortunately it was made of styrofoam so we couldnt complete a free ascent!

Jane icing after after a 16 mile run. She really isn't cold, she is just pretending... NOT! And, yes she is wearing her bathing suit. : ) Notice the Ice cubes in the tub.

This is the reindeer that we nearly collided with head on shortly after we got into the rental van in northern Sweden. I kept looking for Santa Claus to tell him that his animals were trippin. Flat to rolling terrain and lots of water equalled the most perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes! We were a bit nervous about not seeing any giant rock walls but that worry was soon taken care of. (more photos and stories to come)

Fast Times

Andy Burr and I somewhere on the Steitend, Norway!

Mike on "good evans", Mt Evans

Mike crying for his mommy at Mt. Evans.

Piz at the top of the wall before the rappells.

Mike in full pose down looking into the abyss below.

Finally the weather has been a bit more stable around the Denver area.
I was able to get out and climb on the Black Wall on Mt Evans at 13500ft.
"Denver" Mike (as I refer to him) met at 5am to get an early start on his first time on the alpine rock climbing wall. Not really a big wall because it only yields 3 pitch routes, but a real alpine experience none-the-less. When we exited the truck at about 6am the winds were blowing as the sun was barely rising above the eastern ridges. We waited a few minutes because Mike forgot to bring warm clothing. When we began, the wind was ripping. Our first steps were easy as the terrain to the climb is flat, but a few minutes later we were quickly gaining altitude and feeling the affects of less oxygen. Thirty minutes later, we stood at the edge of the wall and were getting ready to rap into the route. It's nice because the hike will make you breath hard but not actually wear your out. Typically alpine route approaches will destroy you before you even get to climb, not at Mt Evans.

On Sunday, I took the time to check out a sport climbing area that I hadn't ever visited called the Monestary. It lies just west of Loveland, Colorado at about 8500ft in elevation.

The schist and granite that makes up the area climbs like the Black Hills in South Dakota and like super smooth and crimpy, blank granite slabs. While attempting to onsight routes you get to enjoy the view of Colorado's most famous climbing 14er Longs Peak. By the end of the day, I had climbed a great variety of routes from steep overhanging pumpfests to crimpy crystal pinching routes. I barely had any skin left on my fingertips and was already looking forward to next weekends adventures.

Enjoy the pictures!