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piz : )
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Day 2
Again it was cold and we were climbing at an elevation of around 8000 feet. The winds were absolutely brain numbing at the Sunday Wall. Our two chosen routes were south facing, but there was little to no sun and the outside temperatures were around the upper 20's.
The Sunday Wall
Ben starting on pitch 2
Ben joining me on pitch 3
I needed the wind breaker because it was wickedly cold.
Ben attempting the last crux pitch, after falling on a heady section down low he aced the upper crux first try!
The last rappel off this wonderful sling and block. Thanks to whomever left this baby for us to rap off of.
We took a beating that day. The weather never really improved. Some cams came flying off of Ben's harness as a gear loop broke. I caught a few in mid air and the rest went whizzing past me to the ground a few hundred feet below.
I led the whole next route just for the sake of time and we were able to warm up in the while driving home. After the first two days we were cut up, bloody, frozen and beginning to question the task before us.
Oh well, that is what adventure is all about!
Rob Pizem's blog. This blog is about my family, my training and my rock climbing adventures. I like to rock climb, boulder and be outdoors. One of my favorite things to do is to establish new climbs in new areas.
Showing posts with label sport climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sport climbing. Show all posts
April 9, 2013
October 20, 2009
More Norway Climbing Photos
Seaside climbing with beautiful views of the coast and sailboats.
We got rained out of the bigwall climbing on only two days, but the sport cragging was steep and well protected and just a short hike from the shore. I think it is around 2 am right now! Here Mike Brumbaugh gets it done on an unknown route.
The fish are dried on these racks and then shipped to places like Italy or South America. There was an awefull stink around while walking under these old wooded racks. I considered campusing the old wood but feared the smell of dead fish would never leave my hands!
A dried Cod from Norway. My hand for scale.Each day the weather was good, we'd wake up from camp on the beach (whenever) and then climb as long as we wanted because there was never any darkness. Approaches were generally very short and well marked and the climbing was vertical to slabby granite crack with great gear and comfy belays.
September 9, 2009
Labor Day 2009
Fall slowly coming to Lander!
Cool limestone formations at the crag.
Jamie getting it done at the Iris.
Yes, I am that flexible. Climbing at the Sinks Canyon.
A last look at the Iris before heading home.We set out towards Wyoming to sport climb at Wild Iris near Lander.(Later after the trip someone said to me, I didn't know that you still sport climbed. I lauged) So, the drive went surprisingly smooth and we made it to camp after about 6 hours of car time. My back and butt were sore from the bucket seats of my wifes car. The full moon rose big and bright as it crawled up over the horizon. The Wyoming highways were empty except for the other travelers heading into the stix. Kelly and I met up with Mike and Mark and Kate at the crag saturday morning and we were off. Mike had spent the last year in Ohio for work and felt the 8500 ft elevation as we began climbing in the shade. As the day progressed our fingers and climbing styles got used to the pocket pulling that is required at the Wild Iris.
We hiked to the crags through the open prarie and then down through the pine and aspen forests which were just beginning to turn yellow for the fall. Each afternoon the clouds built and rain appeared to the north and south, but luckily missed the rocks that we were playing on.
When Mike half the crew was ready for rest, Kelly and I found some other friends at another wall and laughed the afternoon away clipping bolts and taking whippers.
September 1, 2009
How Time Fly's
Dad and I hiking on top of Mt. Evans during a late August snow!
Mom and dad in Colorado Springs, enjoying the scenery.
I found this big horn sheep horn and was getting closer to my inner child.I felt sad when my parents left town this weekend. It was after they left that I realized that I hadn't seen them since December of last year. We had a great time visiting Mt Evans, taking some short hikes and enjoying good food together. I miss having them close, to when I could always see them whenever I wanted. I guess that is what growing up and moving out of the state does. I guess that I just have to make sure that I cherish those precious times together and make sure that they occur more often. I am glad that one of my sisters is pregnant, it gives me another reason to visit home and be with my family more.
But until then, I will make the most of my time here in Denver, Colorado with my wife and continue working to make our dreams come true!
But until then, I will make the most of my time here in Denver, Colorado with my wife and continue working to make our dreams come true!
August 25, 2009
You did what? Part 2
Jason in the "Batcracker".
Nelson in a tube dropping off into the abyss below.
Jason happy to exit the "Rectangle".
Jason and Nelson not thrilled at the wait to get into the cave.So after the river fun we decided that it was time to head out (although I felt that I could remain at Steamboat Rock all weekend). The drive was long and the time was passed with Nelson providing us with many stories of his past years on the road. One of my favorites was the one about him nearly being pronounced dead in a car (he was just sleeping but wasn't waking when some folks were trying).
We arrived at Lime Creek climbing area near Eagle, Colorado late and crashed in another beautiful alpine setting. I didn't rest too well because of the mouse that was scurrying around the back of my truck with me. Unfortunately, he won and I was out on the ground after about an hour of hearing him scramble back and forth along the floor. The next morning we all felt a bit haggard from all the swimming and hiking at Dinoasaur National Monument. It was hot and it took a great deal more energy from us than we expected. I hadn't visited Lime Creek in many years and knew that it was a nice place to check out every once in a while. It's no Ceuse, France, but at least it's not the same old front range climbing. We clipped bolts on some of the steeper routes and got pumped early on and finished with some of the technical vertical slab climbs. The day ended early as the temperatures got hot really fast. In order not to waste time I decided to take the boys on a tour of the Fulford Cave which was just down the road.
The cave stays about 45 degrees year round and was going to be a great alternative to the heat of the day. I prepped my partners for the possibility of some other folks in the cave and as we arrived after the hike, there were about 40 people exiting the cave. By the time we entered, Nelson and Jason were kinda bitter about the experience (they changed their attitude once we started down the pipe though). The three of us cruised through the caves many twisting and muddy tunnels, crawling and croutching and walking and squirming. After they were good and muddy we moved into the Rectangle and I was happily suprised how they greased the tight squeeze barely wider than your hips and shoulders.
After signing the log book and cursing the Boy Scouts who made them wait, we moved through the rest of the cave. The only thing that was a bummer was when we exited the cave. We had left our full water bottles outside the entrance and when we got there someone had taken them. What doesn't make sense to me is why someone would take a full bottle of water from the outside of the cave when they knew that people were still in there. Oh well, chalk that up to ignorance I guess. Those boy scouts still have a lot to learn.
August 24, 2009
You did what?
Some shallow water bouldering! Jason tearing it up.
Jason and Nelson getting ready to tango on the sandbar.
Me aiding the first pitch.
Carrying some gear from the boat to the route.
Our pile of goodies.
Nelson and Jason filling up the kayak, with Steamboat rock in the background.Well this weekend was a busy one that wore me out!
It began with driving nearly 7 hours after work to the upper left hand corner of Colorado to a place called Dinosaur National Monument. We were heading to Steamboat Rock which lies at the confluence of the Yampa and Green rivers and stands a few hundred foot tall. Layton Kor climbed the plum line up the sandstone wall and I was out to free the first aid pitch (hope to free at least). I traveled with Nelson and Jason, both of whom were up for an adventure.
One of the difficulties was the fact that we had to cross the river without getting our gear wet, so we borrowed an infaltable kayak and paddled across. Since none of us are very expereinced on the river it was nice to see that all the water was flat and there were no rapids downstream to wreck our day.
So we arrived late at night and slept in a traquil site along the river under some huge trees. There was a light breeze and thousands of stars in view. As we faded into our slumber, it was easy to count the shooting stars burning up in the atmosphere above because every August is a great time to see space junk getting caught in Earth's gravity.
In the morning, we filled up the boat and crossed the easy flowing 200 ft wide river. Jason and I crossed with the gear and I went back to get Nelson and the camera gear.
On this climb I began aiding up the thin and sometimes nonexistant crack with my rock hammer, pins and knife blades. Each placement getting me a bit higher on the route. It was the first time that I had ever led a hammering pitch and it was kinda cool. I eventually reached the top of the pitch and set a top rope in order to practice the free movements of the route. Unfortunately, Jason and I had good success at the bottom of the pitch, but found that there was not enough features in the sandy dihedral to free climb to the top. I knew that there was a chance that the route would be impossible and I hoped that it wouldn't be but not ever climbing trip is perfect. It was successful in that I learned how to keep gear dry on the river and perform river crossings and that I enjoyed the experience. I look forward to my next river/climbing trip in September in Utah.
After we retreived our gear from the route it was time to swim and have some fun in the river because we were getting crushed by the heat of the sun.
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