Where Does Your Motivation Come From? Some Rambling Thoughts.

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs


Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com  

 As promised I will chat a bit about motivation. I think that there are two kinds of motivation

1. Internal
2. External

As a climber who wants to continue moving forward and challenging myself I have to look at my motivation every once in a while.

I have always wanted to accomplish things/climbs in my life for me. I think that would place me on the internally motivated level. I never try a climb because I am looking for gratification or praise from someone else, rather I try because I am interested in seeing what it is like and whether or not I can complete it.
Sometimes that internal motivation can rise and fall due to life though. Let's say that you have many other obligations and duties and that you have not been able to keep up with your desired fitness level. Then your internal motivation may ebb and flow with your fitness. I see that happen regularly with me. As life's obligations keep every minute of life filled, I feel that each second must have a reason in order to get it all done!

 I have not tried a "hard" route for myself in years. When I say that it is because I understand the commitment level that it takes to complete one in a reasonable amount of time. I look for routes just under my limit because they are easier to achieve in just a few attempts instead of 50 and perfect conditions. So I would say that my motivation is for regular success rather than for the "big one".
This Fall will be the same, but I feel like I will be able to seek out the big one soon!.

Some folks believe that because that I am sponsored by climbing companies that I am under some requirement. In a way I am. I need to represent each brand in the best possible way and help buyers understand the product so that they purchase the right tool for the job. I am always motivated to do that, its in my blood as a teacher. When it comes to some climbing achievement or photo, that stuff is just icing on the cake.

I am normally most motivated by a route and the journey towards the send. I am especially motivated for first ascents. There is something about figuring out and creating a timeless route that can't be duplicated. I really enjoy the process.

As far as those who are externally motivated, I have seen them thrive and succeed, but most of the time they burn out or quit. I think that the passion must come internally in order to pursue an activity for a lifetime.

How are you motivated?

Training with Piz: Goal Setting, The Secret to Success and Happiness

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs


Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!


piz : )


Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com   www.windx-treme.com  

I think this post is one of the more important ones that I will write. This is because you need to know why you are training and what you are training for. It is mind boggling to me when I think about those people who can train just for the sake of training. Cheers to those who can go to the gym or wherever and give it their all with no end or big goal in site. I am not one of those people!

Also, for those who have goals that are years off in the distance. That dedication is Olympic and to those I salute you. But for the rest of us, our goals are more short term and in our "near" future.
Looking ahead 1, 2 or even 6 months is pretty easy and not that challenging to stay on task throughout the hard labor of preparation.

This post is more about goal choosing. It is already understood that having goals drives you to complete them. Additionally, creating a timeline where you move closer in stages truly makes reaching that goal a forgone conclusion. Like anything, all you have to do is follow through with your best effort and stay true to the cause.

As I have grown older, my personal climbing goals have migrated all over the place. I want to complete new single pitch climbs that are good for all abilities, I want to travel and do first ascents in the best style possible and I want to establish a few more big routes with lots of belays in them. Externally, I want to positively promote our sport and create an open forum of climbing/training information for the community, now and in the future.

Sounds easy and like I know what I want. Well it is not that easy. Setting goals as a single climber is pretty simple, add in the love of your life, a few kids, a career, other life responsibilities and the clarity seems to be muddied.

Someone in my shoes cannot choose a goal that requires, 150% of effort because you will simply not have enough hours in the day. (I know this because I don't have time between, family, career, other job, freelancing, sponsorship responsibilities, and on and on and on.) I used to have that free time and it, along with my job took all of my time. Starting slicing up the hours that you can commit to something and you better be choosing goals that actually can be achieved within the given 24 hours that each day offers.

The risk of choosing beyond your time constraints is being unhappy with your progress or a lack thereof and never actually completing it. Setting goals that you never complete is NOT the goal at all. Aiming high and not even shooting will never lead you on a positive growth path in your life.
On the other hand, the old saying that nothing good came for free/easily is glaring you right in the face when you shoot to low on the spectrum. So where does that leave us? Where does that leave someone in my shoes?

My Plans for 2014
I have come to the conclusion that local projects are a priority and the only far away project that I will invest my heart and soul in will be something where I can stay there for a couple weeks at a time. That limits my choices for far away objectives due to my work schedule.
I will not to set my self up for failure by staying away from low percentage types of routes and routes that depend on conditions. When you have to schedule your climbing days a month or two out and you can not change due to other obligations, it is best not to be working on the project when the conditions are impossible.
I will choose goals that allow me to be on different rock types, so that I don't get bored of one style or location.
Finally, I will choose goals that will build so that they are preparing me the big final goal way off in the future.

Thanks for listening and get outside and have an adventure.

piz : )

Training with Piz: Sidepull/Undercling Lock Off Reaches

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

• If you have an adjustable systems board, set it at an angle where you can actually do this move.
• If not find a good size undercling or side pull to perform the move with.
• Fix your feet in the best place possible underneath the hold and lock off with the low hand and reach high with the opposite.
• Repeat the sequence with both sides and take a good rest before the next set.

I find that the more that I focus on a tight core, my body close to the wall and pushing with my feet, the better that I do on this exercise.

I like doing this every once in a while, because it will identify whether my lock off strength is any good. It is also a power move because you can/do use a bit of explosive power.

Decreasing the size of the hold and increasing the steepness will make this even more challenging while doing the opposite will accommodate the mortals like myself out there!

Pain in the Back!

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Ever since the Summer Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City about 3 weeks ago, I have been having to manage my severe low back pain. In 2006, I broke my low back in a fall while attempting to complete a first free ascent in Yosemite. Since then, I have had to train regularly, (Training with Piz blogposts) which helps me maintain use and a mostly pain free existence.

But something odd happened this time around at the end of July, the pain that would come every once in a while has stayed and impacted my everyday movement and to the point where I am now heading to get assistance regularly from the chiropractor. I can no longer touch my toes, do certain stretches and even sit up normally. Getting in and out of the car is not easy, lifting and setting down my fifteen pound 10 week son is actually difficult. I have even been cutting back the intense training sessions because I feel that they are too much for a healing back.

I am nearly 40 and with pride say that I am very fit. I know that I am whining, but it sucks to say that our bodies, no matter how well we take care of them and exercise them can still break down whether we want them too or not.

Now, my wife will say that every time that I have a set back or minor injury, that I freak out and immediately think of the worst case scenario (which would be me never being able to climb and push myself again physically) but as I get older I often have those thoughts and wonder when that day will come.

To those who are living the dream and feeling invincible, love it, enjoy it and relish in the moment whether it is fleeting or for years because no matter who you are and how fit you have become, it won't last forever.

See you out there on the rocks!

Training with Piz: Raised Arm Weighted Ball Pinches

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

 





This one is pretty simple,

1. With the two sizes of training balls, attach weight (here we have five pounds on each ball)
2. Raise arms to form a T
3. Hold for time (we do four sets at 40 seconds a piece)

We attempt to not hold on below the equator of the ball in order to just work our fingers.

If you have smaller hands it is advisable to use the smaller pair of balls for this finger workout.

Over time you can add more weight and grab less surface area of the ball.

 

Training with Piz: Rubber Band Jumping Jacks

These will get your heart rate up and with the correct combination of movements can really become impossible during a circuit.

The point is to get a little opposition in for your arms. All we (as climbers) normally work on is compression and this will work to complement those climbing muscles and help prevent injury.

Similar movements like this with the rubber band will help strengthen you up for those shouldery boulder problems and routes.

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Training with Piz: Standing Dumb Bell Press

In this movement you are working on the triceps, shoulders and core.

When I use it in a circuit, it is a strength movement rather than a power and we are looking for high reps and failure at around 40 seconds, rather than just a fewer numbers over that time period.

At this point in the game I am able to go for 40 seconds with 20lb weights for each of the four rounds. It is a challenge to complete about 20 reps each cycle.

Be sure to avoid a weight that makes you bend your back in an improper manner. It is possible to injure your lower back by using to great of a weight.

Now train hard and use all this outside on the rock and mountains!

piz : )

Training with Piz: Bruce Lee's

There are a few movements/positions that display mastery of muscle groups in the body.

As a climber, having control over your core is essential for pushing the grades and excelling on  steeper rock climbs.Yoga has numerous advanced positions that can develop your core strength in addition to climbing specific training. If you are actively doing yoga, you will see the benefits throughout your entire body.

I do not know yoga nor do I pretend to. I have participated in a few classes of each of the varieties, but have not invested serious time into it.

The Bruce Lee is a great position to hold for a short amount of time in order to test/challenge your whole body core strength. I don't know when or where this position showed up, but I do know that when I first attempted it, that I was not very successful. This position takes time to master and can be done as a progression.

Instructions:

1. Grab the back of a bench and drive your shoulders into the seat of the bench and your legs up above your head, as in the video. Be sure to point your toes down.
2. Next, lift your legs and hips above your head and attempt to maintain a straight position. If you can do that (the key is being able to force your hips into alignment with your body.) you are in position to lower your legs. (I describe it to my students, as the forward hip thrust position, it is all about getting your hips forward) You will immediately know whether the next step is possible when you attempt it.
3. Finally, lower your legs and hips (as they are in a straight line from your neck) to the 45 degree mark and hold.

To progress: start from the vertical position hold it for a 20-30 seconds and build up reps until you can lower your legs closer to 45 degrees.

The key to this is to continue your regular breathing and to not strain your neck

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Training with Piz: Systems Board Pinches

In this clip we are doing a repeated move off pinches.
Our feet are fixed in position and we are grabbing a friendly pinch as many times in a row as possible.
The systems board is at 45 degrees overhanging and we are looking to be consistent at getting 100 movements. It is at that point where we can think about adding a weight vest or moving on to another move that we want to improve.
You can do this at any angle if you are beginning and can set a time or a number of repetitions that you want to repeat with each round.
We are doing three reps of our maximum movements after being properly warmed up.
You work your hand strength, core tension, foot placement and body English during this movement, in addition to endurance and stamina. The real benefit comes when you are about to fall off and are able to push through your fatigue and continue doing the movements. It is those moments that assist you in completing your projects and sending routes. Being able to hit the wall and push through is the ultimate goal of this workout.

Now get out there and use your training to have some fun rock climbing!

piz : )

Training with Piz: 1 Arm Lock Offs on Systems Board

When you want to simulate being on a route with challenging lock offs, you can utilize an adjustable systems board/finger board/campus board, door frame, rings or whatever you have and recreate the angles that you are climbing on outside and increase your ability by moving towards steeper and steeper angles.

We are doing one arm lock offs with comfortable feet in this video at 65 degrees overhanging.

The point is to build the height that we are reaching for, our core strength and our stamina during the exercise.
We will always have one foot higher than the other.
We will always have the high foot be the same as the hand doing the lock off. Example right hand locking off with right foot on high foot hold.

Advanced types of lock offs are at a steeper angles, use smaller holds/underclimgs/side pulls/slopers/pinches/pockets (whatever). Additionally, you can adjust the foot location to opposite foor high and having extrememly high feet that force your butt to hang away from the wall.
You can incorporate the weight vest.

Hold pose for a time20-40 seconds  and repeat for 3 sets with a 1-2 minute rest in between.
Focus on keeping your hips in tight to the wall, (being twisted and straight on), breathing, and reaching high. Begin these on very comfy holds because you can create instant flappers with poorly designed climbing holds.

Have a spotter if you feel like you may hit the floor upon your max.

Get outside and use your training!!

piz : )

Training with Piz: Modified Peter Pans

We call this a modified Peter Pan. (named by the one and only coach Dave Wahl, who taught me what I share with you).

There are many versions that can be created with a systems board and because our systems board is fully adjustable(from 45-90 degrees), we can develop thousands of versions of the movement.

History: The movement is based on doing repetitions on the pinches. Once you are good at a more vertical angle, you can move onto a steeper one and repeat for a set time or number of reps.
We are working grip strength, core, footwork, compression, power endurance and dynamic movement.

Since I am attempting to simulate the movements of a certain route, This configuration of moves came to mind and you are witnessing someone attempting it in the video. We are at 60 degrees overhanging, because I want to first develop the movement and then amp it up into the most difficult version of the movement.

Start at 60 degrees overhung (we will eventually do this at 45 degrees) and cut your feet every time that you match hands on a new hold.
Here we begin on the side pulls, move to the small crimps (cut feet) then back down to the side pulls (cut feet) then up to the pinches (cut feet) and back down to the side pulls (cut feet)
repeat for a time or certain number of reps.

What is great about this is that you can simulate many moves that you may have problems with for all types of climbing.

Now quit training and get outside and have an adventure.

piz : )

Training with Piz: Lockoffs on Rings

I will be sharing what we do at the gym while we train in very short video clips. Enjoy

Take note that these will normally be challenging versions of each exercise. I you are trying this at home (or your gym) you should find a way to modify the activity to your level.
That being said, there is always something harder/easier to work on with training.

We do a pull up them lock off one arm and then hold for 5 seconds.
Then we release back into the general two arm pull-up and switch hands for the next lock off.
Try to make it for approx. 40 seconds, rest and do it again. We normally do 4 reps of 40 seconds twice a week. (We do not do it every week, this movement like all of them that I will be sharing get cycled into the training.

As you progress, it is good to decrease the size of the hold until you are on crimps.
You can use a hang board or rings to start off.I like to add the l position when I do it cause it also works the core and legs and back.

piz : )

Training with Piz: Where I Train

Lots of folks wonder where it is that I train. It is called the Grand Junction Climbing Center.
As a gym, it has ample bouldering and top ropes/leads, but I feel that its pride and joy is the training opportunities.

The best adventures that you have are the ones in which you come back healthy and safe and injury free. I feel that training and strengthening your weaknesses is the best way to ensure those things.

Twice a week at 5 am, I play on the equipment that is in the video with some friends who enjoy it enough to get up at 4:30 with me.

I am a lucky man that I don't have to do it alone.

Get outside and have an adventure!
piz : )

Learning Curve

I had the chance to climb with a long time buddy who was back home visiting his parents for the holidays. Mikey was always a better climber than I was and over the years really began to understand his strengths and weaknesses as a rock wrestler. It was awesome to see him move through the grades over the years on all types of rock routes.

Since I knew that he would be able to have pretty good success on my current project, I invited him to try it out to see how he would do and also what he thought of the line.

On his first effort he reached my highpoint and with a hang or two got to the chains. I was so excited to see him do well on it while at the same time, I felt that I had a long way to go to get to where he was on his first attempt. I know that this type of route is a weakness of mine and that it will take me a monumental effort to send, but for Mikey, he described it at his "dream route" and in his favorite style. His success will certainly come sooner than mine, but I have the luxury of living nearby whereas he has to fly here every once in a while.

I guess the point is not to get worried about who climbs it first, but to look at each climb as a personal challenge, not a competition. I know that had I been in competition with all my climbing partners over the years that I would have quit a long time ago.

We each have our own strengths and weaknesses and must choose routes that inspire us for the looks, style, holds or whatever. It doesn't matter how long it takes to get it done or even if you send it, what matters is the fact that you are climbing it for you and you alone.

 Here Hans Florine talks about his love for the Nose on El Capitan.

Get outside and have an adventure for you and oh, it will be so good!

piz : )

Training with Piz: If your not falling, the route is too easy!

This Keith Ladzinski photo was taking in Joshua Tree National Park I don't know how many years ago. But I wanted to share it because we need to be reminded that all of us fall while climbing (maybe except for Adam Ondra). Especially me. Through those falls and working through cruxes, we gain problem solving confidence and a positive attitude that we can achieve our goals. Through falling (if we listen carefully) we learn the sequences and the skills required to complete each challenge. Through falling we learn how to send!


piz : )

Red Rock Rendezvous Class Notes

Hope to see you all out in Las Vegas, Nevada this weekend.
I will be teaching an Intro to Traditional Climbing Class on Saturday and Sunday.
It's not to late to sign up and get in on the action!

Here is the breakdown of the class that you will be missing with me!

1 Introduction to the Gear and Racking

- Cams vs. Nuts vs. Tricams vs. Ballnuts
- Carabiners and Lockers
- Slings, Harnesses, Helmets and Shoes
- Racking

2 Using the Gear for Lead Climbing
- Placing Nuts
- Placing Cams
- Think of Your Partner Too!

3 Building and Breaking Down Anchors - SRENE/ERNEST
- Building Anchors for Top Roping
- Building Anchors while on a Route
- Breaking Down your Anchor

4 Risks, Stress, and Decision Making
- Bigwall/Multipitch Etiquette
- Preclimb Decisions
- On Route Decisions
- Falling
- Risk Comes in Many Forms (health, rock danger, gear danger, weather, on route hazards (ledges/traverses/other climbers)
- There is Always Tomorrow : )
5 Safety
- Climbing Again Tomorrow is the Number One Priority!
- Commands
- Pay Attention to the Weather
- This Route Sure isn’t What We’d Imagined!

Also a day of climbing with me will be auctioned off on Saturday night as a fundraiser for the American Alpine Club. I will make it a day that you will never forget!

Get out and enjoy the great temperatures and the changing seasons!

piz : )