Training with Piz: Round the Worlds

The Round the Worlds are a core and lock off exercise that can be done on any type of bar.

Instruction:

1. Grab onto the bar like a you are doing a pull-up (palms away from you, not towards you)
2. Pull up into a lock off position (arms should be close to making 90 degree angle) and move/spin around to place your lead hand on the other side of the bar.
3. Stop your swing and bring the other hand around (you will be set up to do another pull-up)
4. Repeat the motion as you go round and round the bar. You can change direction if you get dizzy.
5. Add weight after you become proficient with your body weight by using a weight vest or hold a dumb bell with your feet to increase the resistance and core work.

How Much?

• No more than once or twice a week of 2-3 reps of 10 with 360 degree rotations.

What if I cant do one of these?

• It would be possible to take weight off if you rigged a pulley in the middle of the bar to your waist and a few pounds. It might get all twisted up, but it would work.
• I would focus on climbing more before trying these specific movements and after a while this will be a way to add to your power/endurance.

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Army of Darkness Almost Send Video

Check out this old footage of me on Army of Darkness just before I made the first free ascent!

http://youtu.be/8s44SqeG5QE

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Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

S-Crack Onight Free Solo Video: Alex Honnold

http://youtu.be/dorr_FboJ1s

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Last weekend I got to climb with Alex Honnold, it had been a while since our last time and it was nice to hang out at a quiet area near my house in Grand Junction.

He chose to onsight solo a 5.10 crack called the S-Crack and let me video it for all of you to see.

Enjoy.

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Rowan and Daddy on Winter Walk

Rowan and daddy on a winter walk.

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Saturday Morning Show

Last summer at the Outdoor Retailer show, someone came around and made a video of some of the climbers that I know.
I forgot about this until I accidentally saw it doing a search for something else.
Enjoy, I think that I even end up chatting at sometime too!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZM3klbg_3A

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Finally, Some Good Temps!

 Rowan and I could actually play outside for more than 10 minutes. Here we met some of our neighbors while on a walk near the house.

 Rowan also got to try out a slide at Kidsplex! I think that he liked it.

 Then we went climbing at Escalante with Jesse, Chandler, Mike B and Alex Honnold (aka boy wonder). Here is Alex on a nice finger crack.

 Mike and Alex stealing each others apples.

 Later that day boy wonder got psyched to solo the S-Crack, a 5.10 fingers to 5 inch OW. He soloed up the route and back down to the ground.

 The we all tried a 5.12- lie back through .3's. It was a little pumpy and really nice. Here boy wonder takes his time as he enters the crux.

 Lastly, I let boy wonder try my project, so he could reveal secret beta that would help me send it faster. To my surprise he said it was about as hard as I thought and agreed that my beta was probably the best way to send (even though there are other options/each providing their own challenges.

 Mike lounging around on the beautiful day.

Jesse getting after it on the 5.12- corner. Ah yeah!!!

Get outside and have an adventure!
piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Training with Piz : Round the Block

Round the Block is a 4 move finger strength exercise that I created in order to develop finger strength over the period of  4 moves. It can be modified in many ways. Be creative!

 

This is great for times when you are climbing and you fail at the end of a sequence or boulder problem where the type of hold switches. Like when a boulder is all crimps and then turns open handed at the end and you can't hold on. You can recreate that on the finger board, in addition to many other situations.

 

Instructions:

1. Identify a series of 4 grips that you would like to work on. It can be jugs, crimps, slopers, pockets, anything you would like to get better at using.
2. Determine the order of the sequence, for example: jug to crimp to slope to pocket.
3. Attempt to move from each hold while in a lock off for 30 seconds, 2-3 reps once or twice a week will show results.
4. If you can not hold the lock off while doing the Round the Block then you may use one foot on a small jib to assist. Your goal will be to eventually be successful without your foot assist.
5. When starting off it is better to stay on bigger holds. Certain transitions can be extremely difficult. Be warmed up (especially the fingers) before doing the Round the Block. 

 

 

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Training with Piz: Smear Pulls on Crimps

I know that many times you have needed to pull up with little or no feet. This movement works that specifically.

You can start with bigger holds and then move to tiny crimps. It cane be done on a near vertical wall and you can progress to a steeper angle.

Be sure to push hard with your feet and pull as high as you can.
Just 2-3 sets of 10 on this movement twice a week can improve your smearing and pulling!

Have fun and work hard!

piz : )