September 18, 2012

More Night Climbing video

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Night Climbing

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The Route Challenge at the Crimpfest

 Respect the LAW! My costume for the Crimpfest!
 Heading to more climbing with my partner Calvin. Great guy for putting up with me.

 Early morning light with the monkey finger in the background.
 Calvin hurry up!
 Come on!
 More costumes.
 I caught him, he was stealing draws.
 So many climbs and so much sunshine at Smith Rocks. The crooked River meanders around the base.
 Calvin in his costume. What a dirty dirty guy.
 5 gallon buckets. 5.8
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Smith Rock American Alpine Club Crimpfest!

This weekend I attended the CAMP and AAC sponsopred Crimpfest at Smith Rock State Park in Oregon.
You may say, "how do you do that rob, aren't you a high school science teacher?" And I say, "you just have to travel a lot on the weekend and have a few sponsors who will pay for it!"

So, after work on Friday I drive the five (yes five) hours to Salt Lake City to catch a plane to Portland, Oregon. After I arrived in Portland, I hopped into a rental car and drove 2.5hours to Smith Rock. If you add up the hours you know that I arrived near dawn on Saturday morning.

By seven thirty am I was eating a burrito and getting ready to teach an all day crack climbing clinic in the gorge. My students and I took care to grab food and sunblock in order to be prepared for the beautiful day of climbing that we had ahead of us. We learned about gear placements, racking, building anchors and got to practice it all. Then we climbed and added some new finger, hand, foot and general climbing techniques to our plate.

It was great fun meeting some new folks and then hanging around after with them talking climbing. They all walked away with CAMP t-shirts and posters and stickers and I am sure some other gear if they went to the dinner later that night.

Still with no sleep I went to the dinner and after party where they showed the Reel Rock Film. A packed house welcomed the films and everyone was psyched about climbing!

By two am (yes 2 am) I was beginning my 10 hour route challenge. The crimpfest was to see who could climb the most pitches with their partner. Since I had to leave to go back to Grand Junction by noon on Sunday, I got to start early. 20 onsights later for my partner and I (each of us climbing that many pitches) I drove home exhausted from the weekend and the lack of sleep.

Now you say, how does he doe it, know you know. As Mike B always says, "you can sleep when your dead!"

 This park knows how to do things!
 Morning food with Paige!
 Love that AAC!
 My students for the day hiking to the climbs.
 My students testing their skills.
 The hike to the gorge, so many basalt splitters!
 Perfect basalt crack and faces to climb on and early shade.
 Smoke from the nearby fires covering the sun.
 This is where you eat when you are at Smith Rocks! Climber owned and operated.
The calm before the storm at the Terrbonne Depot.

Get out and have an adventure!

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September 10, 2012

A Glimpse into Climbing in the Zion Narrows

Watch this link for a short 2 minute video of what its like when I go new routing in the Zion Narrows.

We hike through the river, clean the sand and loose rock off the walls/cracks and of course go climbing with a great partner. In this case, Andy Raether, the sextermely motivated and strong sport climb developer.

http://climbingnarc.com/videos/first-ascents-in-the-narrows/

The climbing took place during the first week of June this year. It is difficult to get good light in the Narrows due to the fact that a little or a lot of light entering the Narrows can make a huge difference. You can be blinded one moment and in teh dark the next.

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