October 24, 2011

The British are Coming!

 Tom giving an off width a run with a good spot and Chris shooting some video.
 Wide cracks are fun? Well for some folks. They are a great challenge and make you wear long pants and sleeves and even knee pads and elbox pads too!
 Jesse getting ready for the roof crack of all roof cracks!
 Brian helping Pee Wee zip up his jacket. Pee Wee is special.
 Pee Wee instructing the Wideboyz how to make proper tape gloves.
 The Widboyz and me. Thomas on the left and Pete on the right. Yeah they are little guys, but great climbers!
 The crew coming the the roofs.
Tom doing some inversions
 I invited some friends to climb at the roof crack area in Moab. My friend Jesse, Pee Wee and Brian joined me and the UK Wideboyz (Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker) their photgrapher Alex and their cameraman Chris Alstrin.
Their goal was to climb some more roof cracks, widestuff and have some fun. Here, Jess is belaying Pee Wee as he is going for the first free ascent of one of my longstanding projects, the Necronomicon.
 Jesse taking in some roff crack boulder problems.
 Tom learning the moves on another route of mine called Army of Darkness
Brain hanging around learning the moves on Army of Darkness.
piz : )

October 18, 2011

3 Hours of Fun After Work on Monday

 Jason Huston and I went on a mission after work this past monday. We decided on the Long Dong Route on Kissing Couple in the Colorado National Monument. Since neither of us knew how to approach the route and there wasnt much daylight left, we brought our headlamps and expected to epic. After driving around in the park for a while we decided that we found the way down to the route. We threw on our packs and tightened our helmets and ran down the sketchy cliffs and drop offs until we reached the short chimney that accesses the beginning of the climb. So far, so good. As Jason had been climbing on more vertical sandstone as of late, I wanted him to take the first pitch of the climb. It was a thin crack with face holds that seemed exciting to protect after last nights rain. With slippery feet, he climbed to the top of the first pitch using up almost all the gear that we brought. I enjoyed the top rope and took the next two pitches of chimney. Jason went up the next section that contained a variety of movements and we hung out in the "belfry" just a short distance from the summit of the Kissing Couple. I climbed through bird poo and reached the top safely before dark! What a great day. Jason and I laughed our way up and down the route an made it home before dark. I think that I could get into this. To more adventures with good friends!
 Jason looking into the "Belfry" one pitch from the top.
 Me referencing our topo in the "Belfry", thanks to the mountain project for the beta and great comments from past ascensionists!
 Jason squeezing through the final move before the summit. Yes, he is crawling.
 Topping out on the Kissing Couple.
 Taking in the sunshine of Colorado National Monument. So glad that I live just a few minutes away! And loving my Tau Pullover from Arcteryx.
Of course the sun was in our eyes for this photo. The top of a desert tower is a sweet place to be!
piz : )

October 12, 2011


That is what I have been doing whenever I get a chance to work on a route that I bolted a few weeks back in Unaweep. I am enjoying the process of crimping and lie backing and gastoning my way up the slightly overhanging route. As I link through the opening sequences and shake at the third bolt, I feel drained. After a quick shake I push into the next powerful and balancy sequence that forces a barn door move with tiny feet. After climbing to the stone on tiny side pulls, I move into the stem and STAB at poor under cling above. At that point I am exhausted from the stress of the moves below and significantly powered down. The next moves are total compression to something that I fear will never feel like a shake. Making the next clip begins a new strange and balancy sequence that requires me to crimp the tiniest if tinnies and lunge sideways for a hold. Compression and faith keep me on the rock. Soon I am resting on a sloper foot and another side pull. A crimp traverse and a powerful clip takes me to the final sequence. Lie backing under cling side pulls I gain the stance at the last move. Slopey slippery feet test my mettle as reach for a side pull that always feels too small. Hand jams and fists take me to the anchors and the fatigue sets in.
Oh to try it again and attempt to get a little bit higher before succumbing to the lack of power and finger strength.
The Unaweeper, as I am calling it will be a nice route to complete as I have learned to appreciate falling in that dark corridor one pitch off the deck that is lies hidden within.
 Last moves to get to the jamming
 Shaking out after the entry moves of the climb
 Sticking the nasty little undercling.
Belaying the warm-up, Rowans Route. I do love my Arcteryx clothing!
Get outside and have some fun.
piz : )

October 4, 2011

more tehipite photos by andrew burr

 second pitch 5.12 something
 pitch 2 5.12
 way up high following mike b up the blankness
 mike b walking the plank in the high sierra
the team at the top of Tehipite Dome
piz : )